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Firstly, you should never float a solid wood floor. Secondly, Sheet vinyl is cushion floor with a bounce to it, no wood flooring should be fitted on a bouncy underlay. And that's before potential mositure issues that may be present in the subfloor assuming it has'nt been tested (as there is...

what type of floating flooring are you fitting?

If you have floated a solid wood floor, that’s part of your problem, the fact you still have old vinyl down underneath sets off even more alarm bells regarding poor prep and the floor not being fitted to spec.

Option 4 should be ok. Avoid click LVT on any floor, it’s hopeless and very prone to joint breakage., if you get the floor flat, weight can still trap and cause joint breakage. Quality glue down LVT Like Karndean or Amtico will look very good, cheaper glue down LVT won’t have the same look...

Option 4 should be ok over a concrete base subfloor. What floating floor are you installing?

You should be able to bulk up the bags with granite chippings for more coverage. Check the specs on the bags/manufacturers website first.

You don't need a water membrane underlay over a wood substrate, these are designed for concrete substrates to protect the flooring you are laying. Best Underlay for laminate/engineered wood is Duralay Multitex, it's the wood substrate version of Duralay Timbermate XL.

Reality is, that fitting work will be priced not as a day rate but by the m2 being fitted. Same as the preparation materials, your looking at an area with a tolerance for the m2 and the depth. In all likelyhood, they'll use a bit more material than they expect and swallow that cost, if you...

I'm in Surrey and those prices are probably looking about right for quite a lot of prep with premium materials which let's face it, higher end product like Amtico Form requires/deserves.

Run the vinyl to the front of the step and fit it into a Staittods Premier Full Bull nosing?

Personally I would look at a quality Lamainate over Click LVT, far less likely to have issues created by level or weight of furniture which Click LVT is plagued with.

Either/Or

Dazlight's advice is absolutely spot on and the correct way to make sure the Herringbone does'nt go all over the place. Technically, you 'could' use something like Mapei Renovation screed over the base chipboard according to Mapei's specifications but it would be imperitive to use their primer...

You won't be able to coat or polish up a Lacquered Engineered Wood Floor. The finishing coat is a protective matt sheen layer above the wood surface. Only way to change the finish would be to sand off the protective coating which will be a nightmare.

That looks damaged, you could try cleaning the joint up and using a suction cap to pull the floor back together but I don't fancy your chances.

From the description, to me, that actually looks like it needs to be fully glued to a flat screed prepared or SP101 Ply subfloor and can’t be floated on an underlay. Plain tongue and groove and not being suitable for UFH would suggest fully stuck install The website seller should supply full...

In Company B is talking sense.

Mapei Renovation over that will be fine.

Sounds like it’s a clicknsustem gloating floor that needs laying on underlay. Doesn’t sound like it’s a ‘proper’ parquet floor. The packs should have the details the manufacturer recommends regarding installation.

Of your using quality self levelling screed and spiked roller you won’t need pegs for self levelling screed