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Honeywell quality isn't what it used to be but probably still better than the rest.

Possibly slightly mis-aligned. slacken off all the other joints in the vicinity then make sure the suspect joint is properly aligned and tighten that first. Firm hand tight should be enough. Tighten all other joints and test.

Replace the PRD. You can get one from Triton or showerdoc.com or other places. Throw the filter shower head in the bin. Make sure the original shower head is descaled and put it back on. Triton showers aren't great to be honest but its not their fault if you fit an aftermarket part that isn't...

But is the tap still upside down?

It won't be a left hand thread so should just screw back in. If it won't, just replace the tap. That ones upside down anyway. Looks like that tap has check valves incorporated so get one the same. Less than a tenner from Screwfix.

Think you're going to have to change the whole valve.

That valve not available but it looks like toiletspares.co.uk can supply a replacement with a 50mm push button. https://www.toiletspares.co.uk/replacement-rapide-flush-valve-with-round-button.html

Is that flexi pan connector set in the concrete slab? Major **** up. Got to come out really. You say "they" used the pan connector so at least its not your fault. Building control certainly won't be happy with it.

I think the PRD on Tritons come off the outlet so they only tend to drip when the shower is running and less will drip if the shower head is less restricted which the OP indicated happened when the original shower head was put back on.

On the ones I've seen, the holes in the shower head are very small and give the impression of good flow but its a smaller amount of water moving faster. I've also been to few where they have caused problems. Don't forget that the people selling these things are just buying stuff from AliBaba or...

If it was one of those shower heads with the little beads in the handle, they are very restrictive and will have broken the PRD diaphragm. Spares are available from showerdoc.com

The heat from the condenser must be going somewhere. If its not vented to outside, it must be going into a heat sink. They probably use mains water and dump the warmed water down the drain.

A close coupled toilet with a bottom outlet pan may be an option. Twyford Alcona I think is one but others may be available. Would need to check dimensions but a small amount of flexibility given by using offset pan connector.

Is this towel rad second hand? The hole at the top should have a vent screw in it for bleeding air out. If its missing, steer well clear.

You're correct in that the main seal is made between the underside of the bath and the waste using a rubber washer. Quite normal though to find rough fibreglass at the mating surface hence the need for a smear of sealant on the washer. As for silicone vs plumber's mait, if used correctly, both...

Yes, I put one flexi in, secured the tap and then fitted the other flexi from below. Remember it being a PITA.

I had to buy one off tinternet for a job a while back. Its double ended 34 & 40. Think it was the 40mm end that did the job. Less than a tenner from Amazon as I remember. Really cheap and nasty quality but it worked.

You need to trace the pipes from the valves in the airing cupboard upstream and downstream. Does one come from the loft tank and feed into the base of the hot water cylinder? If you close this valve you will stop water entering the cylinder. When you open a hot tap, water will flow until the...

Use a McAlpine waste and trap. Any should fit but if they are from the same manufacturer, there should be a better chance of a perfect match. I would throw away the stuff that's been kicking around the shed for years and buy new. Cheap enough.

Don't bother trying to patch up something that has failed. They are cheap enough so replace the bath waste and the trap. Shouldn't need any sealant between waste and trap. Firm hand tight should do it. I sometimes use a thin smear of LSX either side of the rubber between underside of bath and...