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More info required: I assume you want to use the roof space fully if you're looking at attic trusses? How steep is roof? Rafter size requirement is affected by angle as well as length. I would expect attic trusses to span 8m without central support but they will likely need a crane to...

Is there a load bearing wall under the studs? The base plate seems to be set way down so there may be support provided by the studwork but those are huge rafters so not obvious quite what's going on. For peace of mind, I would get confirmation from your designer before you go any further

Then another coat will pick up the ones you missed!

Dare one suggest that a flat roof would be a safer bet for a DIY job: easier to construct and easier to seal up I also tend to think that very flat tiled roofs, even allowing for the use of the correct tiles, just don't look right. On the basis of learning though, why not go old school and get...

That's not a plasterer's work. I think its actually badgers not bears, Noseall. or maybe it's a regional thing.

I'd take an EPC of D as possibly a bit low but the notion that you could get to an A rating realistically strikes me as la-la land. You should probably talk to the offspring: it's them that will be selling it to put you in a home!

You have to assume load bearing, but framing out new openings is straightforward enough. BR? Strictly required but for a simple door most peeps wouldn't bother

BCs certainly push for it.

Don't over think it. Your new steel will support the joists and the wall above plus any roof loads acting on it will continue to be supported by the joists in compression as they arte now. This actually makes the job easier as you won't run the risk of loosening bricks bewtween the joists

Not unusual. I've seen places where the wall above was offset by 200 mm so the roof loads were actually inducing bending in the joists

I tend to agree with FMT but iff your slabs are really well bedded then you'll probably be ok. I would look very closely as I drilled the holes to see if there are any visible voids.

You certainly don'r need to physically build in 2 stages, just get the permissions straight which is probably safer in 2 bites as I suggested earlier. Just for the record whose idea was the bigger dormer and at what stage did the idea come up. Do you have any building reg drawings. Your...

They aren't normal hinges with that crank in them: surely normal ones would do the job the OP wants

I'd say you were right: if an't broke..... But SWMBO is always right (assuming they're all like mine!)

I used a blowlamp and a stiff bristle brush on mine

I look at the depth of those things and wonder if a couple of steels and normal timbers wouldn't be a better option

Blade not sharp and trying to take too big a cut would be my thought.

If you get a drill with a load of torque you've still got to hang on to it. You may yet be better strappng the tree rather than this somewhat unusual approach. Or even dare one suggestt that if the state of the tree is worrying, then it may be time to remove it for safety.

Your architct hasn't helped you much has he? A couple of principles: 1. Generally speaking planners don't like dormers 2. Any work shown on a Planning Application can be refused even if it is of itself PD. I have had this done to be and in fairness the planner did warn me what was likely to...

Always worth checking the joints for damage/debris immediately before you put them together: very small bits of trapped material can stop the joint closing properly and the boards sitting down flat.