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Hi Thanks for the response. Right so build the work is notifiable under building control. I am basically doing what I can until I can get builders back for some joinery and electrical work. Screeding the floor is a job I am doing next. It will involve working late into the night so I was...

Hi I am about to screed my extension floor and need some lighting for the long days ahead. It has a high vaulted ceiling I was thinking of running the cable through where the steel beam is and then dropping down. I have put wooden battens across to attach plasterboard at some point. Would I...

Hi I changed the post title as it originally said faulty thermostat which it had nothing to do with in the end. It was my DIY assumption. The faulty valve was boxed in with CH pipes and very difficult to access, so last resort. There was no way of seeing the valve working until I removed the...

100mm screws through 12.5mm plaster board then through 50mm insulation into rafters? Is it not all or nothing with the batten method? You can't just screw to the rafters and then use a batten halfway down can you? What about lighting cable do you just clip this to the PIR? So many questions...

Hi I am approaching the end of insulating between my rafters and will soon be overboarding with more insulation. I chatted to a builder who suggested fitting 2 x 1" batten through the next insulation (running perpindicular to the rafters) and then fixing the plasterboard to this making it...

I cut the microswitch from the old 2 port switch and soldered it on to the faulty valve and it's working again now. picture of microswitch if it helps someone out someday. Thank you for everyone's contribution much appreciated. WIFE...TAKE NOTE THIS IS WHY I DON'T THROW EVERYTHING OUT!!!!!

I have took the head off the valve and opened the thermostat. If you look in the picture you can see the switch is depressed so it looks like a microswitch issue?! Are they normally quite robust? I am going to try and swap the switch over from an old valve. When I bought this valve I bought a...

Is your valve a honeywell 2 port also? I have an old one here in the kitchen and it looks like if you manually move the lever to the manual/open position then the lever almost hits the mircoswitch. The one I have has been taken apart a bit so doesn't quite make it but it may have once!? So this...

The other valve is the same the blue wire when connected to the junction box loses 240v not sure why but red herring i think. So the only difference between the two valves is the orange wire on the downstairs is not going live. this is controlled by microswitch? Thanks

Yeah getting 240 v from brown to earth. The blue from the 2 port valve goes to a junction box that then goes back to the wiring centre. I get 240v from the blue from the valve but when I connect to the junction box its no longer getting 240v??

It's a Honeywell valve I bought from Amazon. I am not getting 240v to blue though?

I Have tested the wiring from the Thermostat through the wiring centre to the valve wiring where the light brown wire becomes live when thermostat is turned but the orange wire does not go live? I have placed the valve manually on open. I have an old valve somewhere (this one is just over a year...

Yeah might have to do this. The upstairs thermostat when turned makes the orange wire live on both port valves but the downstairs does not?

I have checked the voltage between pins 2 and 3 and all is well at 240v. I can access the motorised valve and wiring i am not sure the orange wire is live when thermosat is on ? Is that how I would check?

OK Thanks. No Upstairs heats upstairs. Just downstairs not working. Will do as you suggest and report back

Hi I have an S Plan plus pumped CH system with motorised valve for upstairs and downstairs heating. Both upstairs and downstairs have a T6360B1036 that calls the boiler. The downstairs heating thermostat fails to call for heating, it makes an audible click but the boiler does not fire. I was...

So plugs maybe way to go, not much else to try!?

Yeah. They are like thermalite type. Thought it would be ok? I did countersink so got 40mm of screw in block (82mm screws).

Hi I am insulating my utility room using the " warm batten" method. I have fitted the insulation board to the wall with some concrete screws through the batten and board onto the insulated block behind. I am disappointed by the fixings. They didn't pull in particularly tight and I was going...

Thanks. I've had another look and I've just knocked a ball valve thread higher up and its dribbling down so tightened up and looks ok. No need for the torch! Cheers