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use one of these to connect onto existing pipe inside will allow for any difference in pipe size ...

pretty obvious why by your picture . And should it not have been one of your first questions to them What damage will be done to my drive and what sort of reinstatement will you do pretty basic standard question asked by the vast majority of people

. How long do you think pay back would be for buying and having an undersink heater

Cant see them moling that they will more than likely dig this

The seals are a wee bit awkward to get out a bent pick is handy for them out of the countless plates on 105`s i have had in and out i have only ever had one original seal leak so you are a wee bit unlucky You could try a bit of silicone grease onto the existing seals see if that works

Yep not unreasonable to ask what the actual repair was and what has been changed etc

Have a look at wickes they are made by stelrad and a better rad

Dont make them because there is no demand for them . Here is an elbow type . if you dont want to go with madrab idea https://www.bes.co.uk/pipe-tube-fittings/pipe-fittings/compression/compression-wallplate-elbow-22mm-x-3-4in-17717/

No it wont clear sludge you need x400 first then once flushed you add x100 . X200 is a silencer and will quieten noisy boilers

on both then initially change the main sensor in the dry pocket

DO NOT TOUCH the isolating valves unless you want a very high chance of them leaking Plenty of room ? there is about 6 inches of pipe on show

yeah venturis fall apart usually show up first on thermostatic showers , Tip to get all the bits out tape a bit of hose pipe to your hoover hose and quick switch on gets all the bits out

only ever had the lead to a 105 gas valve faulty once and that was about 20 years ago there is diodes in it seemingly , yep a strange one

what temp is your cylinder stat set to because if its too high cavitation can occur in the shower pump So keep it below 60 degrees

Worth checking for a neutral fault to

certainly a head scratcher

long shot Have a look at the condense trap there is two wires on top of it pull the one at front off see if it fires up .

i wouldnt bother then

very strange fault Was it a brand new pcb or reconditioned and definitely not an instant pcb by mistake . Earth wires from and to pcb re connected /altered Correct wires put back on sensors / red to ch sensor green to hw sensor Has anything else been done to boiler ? Polarity well worth a check

Do all your rads heat up with no cold spots