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Why do you assume you're not going to crack the nuts with it: forces the assumption that it's inherently weak. My spannering days are largely behind me but this doesn't sound like a must have.

I did just what you suggest: worked just fine, You need an exterior grade adhesive obviously.

How far do you want to extend? This would be helpful to answer. You probably need to move the chamber left to the boundary, run forward then you'll need 2 new chambers to get back into line. This should work unless the existing drain is tight on fall. You will have to submit information to...

The entire addition would be assessed against PD criteria. Kitchen or bedroom?? You run the risk of creating a bit of a lash up TBH. Do the jpb properly: you might wind up devaluing the place.

Safe but lazy TBH.

They sound like conventional concrete rather than Celcon type ligtweight so I would expect at least 7N. Why do you need to know?

Unlike Engineers, Architects have their title legally protected: back in the day I had a heated argument with Yellow Pages, who were trying to sell me advertising, insisting I should have an entry under architect. What an underhanded bunch they were looking back: on another occassion they...

It looks historic, but if you're worried stick some tell-tales over a couple of the worst ones and monitor. I'd just point them up and move on.

Dopey and Careless??

Like Old Salt, I'm a huge fan of Lidl. Their stuff is amazing value for money and the corded tools have really long leads which is good. I have a digital caliper (£10 iirc when Screwfix were £35) which is really helpful for checking existing steels in buidings, the excuse/reason for getting it...

If you put a pad over the whole area without digging out all the soft material it will settle unevenly. Pads will let you get down to solid ground

You can get crushed concrete (it's recycled by defenition!) to type 1 grading in fact and as the OP says it is a superior material to the traditional crushed limestone especially in wet conditions, A bag of cement stirred in will also stiffen things up. I your case I'd be more inclined to dig...

My daughter's previous neighbour kindly offered to go halves on her fence. Fortunately a few of my genes made it through to her and she gently pointed out to him that the fence was his should he care to refer to his deeds. We have just moved and the rear and right side (viewed down garden)...

If none of the 3 interested parties are concerned how can you be expected to know? Crack on and trust the pros.

Most places are responsible for 1 side. The poor devil at the end of the road may have 2. There is usually a T on the land registry plan to denote ownership.

Stud walls can be load bearing. The section of wall in green in your first drawing appears to be the original and is in all probability supporting a steel. This would be a tricky and expensive bit to move.

This time of year it's likely the wood has swelled which won't help.

You'd normally try to aim for a cut to fill balance when dealing with a sloping site so the original ground surface would probably have been aroiund mid height. I would not want anythng to do with this unless there was absolute clarity on who is responsible for what and in all probability not then.

He does say early on 4:1 with "sharp ie concreteing sand*

The cut isn't an issue so long as the masonry is sound, which it sertainly appears to be.