Search results

I'm guessing you don't drive an EV

...of course, to be really pedantic, it depends on which of the three kinds of average we're using...

If you have a smartphone then a phone holder will do the job. If it's android, then a really clear always on clock app I'd recommend is 'giant clock'

Oh dear - random insults so early in the conversation. I wish you well, but won't be looking at this thread again.

It's frankly hard to know where to start with addressing this confusion... Maybe let's take any other kind of abuse - are you really suggesting that we should feel good about about compensating any other kind of abuser for no longer being able to abuse, whilst not compensating those who are abused?

...and that's the ongoing tragedy. If it's any consolation, I feel for you.

I'm confused as to which of those you're expressing...

Are you seriously suggesting that we should feel good about paying money to slavers, whilst feeling ok about not compensating people that we held in slavery?

Slightly confused - are you bored of racism, or bored of racism being brought to your attention?

I regularly run a 50m ethernet cable through a couple of different buildings - it's pretty flexible. If I were you I'd be looking in more detail about what the problem running it through the loft seems to be.

So, did you trash the ceiling, or have second thoughts? What is the 6x2 (or the 6x2) for?

Maybe a picture will help...

The much easier option is to sister the existing joists, as has been suggested. If it was mine I'd probably fix a level joist to one side of each joist, and ply to the other - (it seems a bit tall for just 2 sheets of ply, but a joist on both sides would be overkill). ...and worth bearing in...

It's worth reading through the related threads at the bottom of this one. I found post #2 on this thread really helpful: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/what-to-stick-on-to-soundproof-back-of-door.457487/#post-3632010 Also worth being aware that sound can travel under floorboards, and above...

In terms of time controlling electric heaters, the heat is instant, so, by and large, I would think the best way to control them is to switch them on when you go in to the room, and switch them off when you go out. I'm not at all convinced that central or remote switching would lead to lower...

In terms of storage heating, I really can't see why you can't simply switch to a low cost night time rate (lots are available), install a couple of them, and set them to heat up at the low rate period.

I would suggest it's worth just getting an EPC, rather than guessing about it, then look at what improvements to make. My experience is that EPC surveyors vary in competence! So it's worth finding one who is (a) competent and (b) knows how to assess what's present to get the best rating...

you might find a 90 degree bit holder to fit in there...

Sweet

Don't be silly - the slope is to help the electricity flow down to the shower unit.