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+1 The presence of the black wire to terminal 3 , not linked to L , suggests volt free.

https://www.mytub.co.uk/product_images/Sunvic_SZMV23205_Installation.pdf may help in fault-finding Motor on/motor off valve FWIW.

+1

It may all become clearer if you chance your arm on the cheaper replacement and have it front of you to see how it fits together.

Yes. Remove inner sealant. See what happens when shower is used. If necessary, then reseal outside. See what happens.

This gives an indication of the age of the installation, are you in a hard water district?

^^ +1 regarding irrelevance of cylinder height to flow rate.

Try https://www.showerspares.com/search/aqualisa_hydramax_fixed_arm_chrome_235013/?srsltid=AfmBOopAkHV_vM4QjsPWPKBdF_yzBAhNkW5ONhNi8hrWv7WxT8uAw2ST Some reviews there from those who've apparently had the same issue...

+1

^^^ yes

1) Modern boilers do run cooler, you won't have a cast iron lump of heat exchanger kettling away on the wall. 2) You could frame out the airing cupboard wall, incorporating a celotex layer. You'd need to leave studwork at the right height for the boiler hanging bracket or face the wall with...

"Why are there no old school heating engineers?" We exist, don't advertise much, and are are choosy about the jobs (and customers) we take on. And once, of course, we were overconfident no-nothings derided by our more experienced elders.

There are indeed excellent roofers out there. I'm lucky enough to know one.

Pragmatic and sensible approach.

Hive replaces programmer and room thermostat. More detail of your current setup required.

Then the cylinder stat is faulty or miswired, more likely the the latter. Or set too high.

Phew!

R29 ?? Got a GC number?

Yes, absolutely. An alternative would be something like https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-straight-service-valve-15mm-x-1-2-/58008?tc=BC8 (other brands available) discarding the chromed nut and olive and reusing the existing.

https://www.toolstation.com/fernco-plumbqwik-straight-coupling-black/p37007 is an option