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Afterthought... if this is an external wall, it should have weep holes to disperse the water pressure. This enables the wall to do its job while being less thick and expensive to build. Some useful info here on building retaining walls.

Teknos Siloksan Facade. Highly breathable. Can be tinted to RAL colours. I bought mine from Holman Paints.

Not unless the existing varnish is coming off. If it's sound, all you need to do is key it.

I would leave the stack. A future owner might want it, and no stack often spoils the look of the house. The brown is soot leaching through the parging and the mortar, due as Wayners says to damp in the flue. This happens because of people leaving the pot uncapped &/or blocking up the fireplaces...

If it all comes off, before you try again, rub the rail down with 150 wet & dry paper to make a key. I have to say that painting chrome is a pretty ... unusual... exercise.

It's rusting. You can't get paint under the edge, so it will come back. You can treat it with Jenolite and then paint it with two-pack and then a chrome spray, but it will come back. Time for a new door. Most of them are alloy, and will not give you this problem.

I added two doses of driers to about 500ml in the can. It went off overnight, as in the good old days. So, I think that each time you use the paint you need to add more driers. Or as opps says, decant and just add it to your pot.

So, the Polyvine waterbase went on fine over the spirit stain. Dried as it should. Hooray. Now I need to use some oil paint again... to be clear, do I add the driers to the can once and that's it? Or do I add it each time I use the can?

Oh. Thankyou. In that case, I'll use the Polyvine. I feel like we're being pushed away from oil coatings, but that would imply a conspiracy, and that would need a degree of intelligence on the part of the govt.

So now it's varnish... the old tin of Rustins from maybe ten years ago had separated to the point where I couldn't be bothered to revive it, so I buy a new tin of the same stuff or what appears to be the same. Yacht varnish, satin. After 15 hour's it's still tacky. Complete pain. I used a...

Wet edge with waterbase... now there's a magic trick. That is the reason I only use waterbase outdoors... quite hopeless on anything like a panelled door. Thankyou.

I never tried it before as I feared it would make the paint dry too fast and leave brushmarks. Do you find any difference in use?

I found it. Tapsplitter, like this. Levers against itself. No more bodging around with big spanners. I remember over forty years ago a tap so tight that I ended up splitting the basin in half.. Araldited back together. But this tool didn't exist back then.

What used to be a normal tap. Basin tap. Hot. Maybe 60 years old. Half-inch rubber washer, which I need to change. The cross-head comes off OK and the easy-clean cover, but the body is soooo tight. I remember there was/is a tool you put over the tap then it levers on itself to undo. Quite...

Well I did say that I've used the paint before... about thirteen years ago to be precise, and even though it's been sealed it does appear that old paint 'goes off' . I bought a bottle of terebine driers and it says that it revives old paint that takes a long time to dry. The driers were prompted...

Urrgh, I was thinking that it might be a hundred years or more. It's not worth doing anything about the render until you know why it's cracked. Are the cracks all in much the same area? Or distributed around the house? Are there similar houses nearby? Is it on an estate? Have a look, see if...

The render is cracking. Was it cracked before it was painted? How old is the house? No use filling or painting over it, it will crack again. Yes, to a degree you do need to worry as damp will get in behind the render and eventually the render will start to blow off, especially if we have a...

A bit late, dare say you have done summat by now... I would sand it with a detail sander, see if you can flat it to a taper edge. Then try one drop of the lining paper and see. If you are wallpapering over the lining paper, I would think you'd be OK. Matt paint, perhaps OK. Anything shiny...

That second one looks like a plasterboard join that should have been scrimmed, or perhaps over a stud. In a corner or against wood for instance, I use decorator's caulk, in a tube, flexible and seems to last well. In plaster, good old Polyfilla, the powder stuff, it goes off quickly, grips...

Painting an old internal door. Part old paint, part sanded to bare wood. Oil primer, oil undercoat, Sikkens AZ oil topcoat, all of which I've used before. After sanding, I used a tack rag before painting. Sanded between coats as well of course, and tack rag again. The rags, kept in their...