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Thanks for that. He's a very nice chap and had a terrible time with the Dri Coat and said he'd avoid it like the plague in future.

Sorry it's not clear. The bare brick wall was treated with adhesive, then it had Thistle Dri Coat put on. http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/DS-106-01%20Thistle%20Dri-Coat.pdf This was left to dry out from about 4pm to 8am and then more adhesive and then the finishing plaster was put on...

I've been lurking on Plastering and Rendering for months, so I'm thrilled to have a question of my own. Advice appreciated please. Had house re-wired. Chase cutting led to plaster falling off 2 kitchen walls. Cleared walls back to bare brick. Really wanted undercoat and top coat...

Dead as a dodo. Discovered one of these at the back of a cupboard. Initially showed about 1.5amps, then fell back to zero. Downside: new battery needed. Upside: learned lots. Thanks for help. Update: Not dead after all. 83 year old ex-mechanic neighbour suggested I tested with...

Thanks. Will let you know how it goes tomorrow.

Battery about 5 years. Only conked out yesterday - previously no probs. Car been left standing for a few weeks. Been having a rewire - nightmare contractor, no time to take old car out. Think leave on charge, if it's charging should the gauge go up? Appreciate help.

Yes, tried the bulb test, the bulb lights up.

It says "Fitted with thermal automatic protection. No output fuse needed." Apologies, dim person posting this - can I use something like an indicator bulb?

Thanks for reply. Yes, have got another car. Should I take this other battery out and connect it all up to the old charger?

I'm trying to charge a flat car battery - never done it before. Exide Japanese WO54SE 35AHR 320 CCA D43W23 showing Discharged (Recharge) off old Nissan Micra. I inherited one of these: SELMAR STAR Battery Charger Input 220/240V AC 50Hz Output 5.6 amps RMS 12V DC, but no instructions. My Dad...

Keep at it! Am going to try the Zin stuff recommended - will soon have whole house to strip after rewire. Grateful to know about it. http://www.acohardware.com/435.html

Just dealt with this "residue" problem in my kitchen. Amateur advice only. Equipment: 1 sponge floor mop, 1 bucket very hot water, green scratchy pan scrubs, microfibre cloth. Method: soak wall really well with hot water using floor mop. (Can cover a large area without getting soaked.)...

Thanks for helpful suggestions. Looking into weather compensator. All sorted - where there's a will ... *TRVs on all rads. *Worcester - use by-pass (already installed) achieves adequate temperature differential; *building control happy (see...

Hmmm Actually I quite like the ability to be able to switch the boiler on and off remotely. But ... I still want to be able to control the temperature of all rooms individually and not have an open radiator chugging away where I don't need heat. But what you want and what you can have aren't...

If the room stat works simply by sensing the temperature where it is located and there is an rf signal to the boiler then I can't understand why it can't be located in any heated room and respond to the temperature in that room.

Thanks gasfitter. When told I'd have to have a room stat thought I'd be able to trigger it by moving it into any heated room and have TRVs on all rads.

kirkgas, that's what I'd hoped, with the room stat being portable it would respond to whatever heated room it was in, therefore all rads could be on TRVs.

Thanks for advice. Understand that room stat and what I want not compatible - for reasons you've pointed out. Can systems be fitted just with old fashioned timer, no room stat and meet building regs?

Sorry, don't understand. Can't turn the rad down as it's got two lockshield valves. Can they be adjusted to turn the rad down? Apologies for being a bit thick!

Exactly as installer (very nice person) has fittted it - no TRV in hall. Will only solution be to switch boiler on and off via thermostat controls?