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Simple, they remove the units,split the unit,clean each piece of glass and reseal the unit. Im friends with a very good glazier and he has always recommended to replace units rather than repair, its quicker, costs around the same and often the old glass is too badly stained by the condensation...

have you ordered/got your door set yet? If not then order it so you can fit it between whole bricks and then tooth in the brickwork with half bricks cut them neat and use good end face into your reveal,otherwise you can render the reveals with sand and cement. Brickwork would take you a day so...

Is your existing wall rendered or brickwork?? was wondering what you had in mind for the external reveals where you have grinded your bricks. Or maybe your frame will be fitted to the front of the opening?? In any case i would use a small kango with a 2inch bolster tip if your bricks are soft...

I would keep it adds a lot of character :)

I would opt for a cheap bit of carpet (carpetright) or some cheap laminate myself but then i have never seen what you are describing done.

Remember to mix the reclaimed and new blocks as you lay it rather than have a room half and half thats guessing they are the same width and length????? Shame you are going to lose the tongues and grooves as they would help to keep the blocks level for sanding.

:lol: ok point taken

I do no how to drill cylinders succesfully but im not sure its responsable to broadcast it on a public forum :? any opinions on this dilemma anyone????????

upright brick will leave you big gaps to muck up,halving bricks works well or i suppose you could cut some breeze blocks to size builders merchants sell hand saws for this purpose or an old saw will do. Just an idea but alot of people leave the box frame and fit upvc/ally windows inside the box...

I reckon you could replace the sashes with new double glazed sashes,draughtproof, fit a new set of window furniture and decorate your existing box frames for around the same money as a upvc replacement. But if you are set on plastic then both methods are common but i prefer to brick up,bond...

:D i've seen the name on high quality adjustable spanners :wink:

Hi Mike, i find www.leadsashweights.co.uk in wimbledon fair in price for larger orders but if its only make up weights your after try alloway timber they are a chain of timber yards not sure how close there nearest branch is to greenwich though. Another method for makeups is to buy lead...

Hi wood,intresting to hear you often float solid floors i take it if you are laying over old pine subfloor you would still nail?or is floating the way to go?

putting down a dpm and putting a few hundred nails through it is a waste of time :lol: . Dpm is more often used on concrete sub-floors the chances are your timber sub-floor will be dry,as for nails pop down to your local hire shop and hire a secret nailer also called a porta-nailer its a...

I've layed one solid oak floor by glueing the tongues and floating it seemed fine and and there are no probs as yet (3 months ago) but luckily the lengths were very straight!!!!if the milling is not so good you will have trouble as you will need to clamp the boards up until the pva has dryed...

The lead weights will have a hole down the middle to thread the cord through and then attach to cast iron weights. Bathroom scales will do the job just fine and as long as your weights are within a couple of pound of the sashes they will run fine. The weights for the top sash should be...

Fit your skirts after the floor is layed,they will cover your expansion gap!! There is a few diff methods of laying onto concrete a couple of common methods are bonding directly to concrete or screwing/plugging battons at 400mm centers then secret nailing(hire a porta-nailer) to these. Battons...

guessing its a click floor you could unclick the floor pack out the hollows with hardboard and re-lay or cutting a hole in the underlay and using a blob of mastic may also work.

Depends where in the country you are but the timber box sash windows(being that theres 4) alone would set you back 2-3 grand then then theres the brickwork etc. If i had to guess i reckon around 5 grand,the people that commited that crime should be tarred and feathered!!!!!!!

There are diffrent methods but this one works for me..... First fix wide battens on the face of the brickwork/dash strips of ply/mdf will do fine,fix them with 3 screws and plugs top middle and bottom. The ply should overlap the reveals about 8-10mm giving you a straight edge to trowel off...