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Laying a porcelain patio in front of my garden room, levels are all off left to right, so I'm going to front with a granite Kerbstone (200x100). Is a 100-150mm semi dry bed straight on top of the dug area ok? Or should I be laying a sub layer of type 1 first? If so, what's the required depth? Or...

Sorry, me again. Looks like I've found a full length board to minimise butts. Would it be 2 fixings per board on each stud? I saw somewhere 1 might not be enough and would cause cupping

https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-tg-screw/p16647 These any good, or would I need a thicker screw?

Woody, thanks for all your comments on my threads on this garden room. I've got another thread that's asking the question about joins in shiplap or t&g (not sure what I'm using yet). Basically 6m long,, what's your thoughts on whether to butt join the long lengths by scattering the joins or...

Thanks. So on a 20mm thick bit of cladding, would a 50mm stainless nail/screw be sufficient? Or should I be using longer

Sorry, didn't quite understand this. Are you saying use a nail that only goes through the thickness of the shiplap and batten combined but not totally through the batten? Thanks

Sorry to resurrect this. Would framing the cladding into sections be better? I think it would look better, just not sure on it's practicality. What I mean is running treated 2x2's down the external corners and one in the middle to create 2 equal sections to fit the cladding into. Could then...

In relation to my previous cladding thread. What should I be fixing 20mm green treated shiplap with? It's a garden room, 4x2 studs, 11mm osb, 2x1 battens. Would a 50mm fixing be OK? I have a 1st fix nail gun but could also borrow a 2nd fix if needed. May screw the bottom few in for easy...

Yeah but mine is a flat roof, only just over the 1m from boundary nonsense

Interesting. May have to see if I can find a picture of it somewhere. As mentioned I'm on a hill so can be seen from the roads from 2 sides and the front. I'm sure I'd get away with lower parts not being timber

Neighbours a nightmare. Size of the room 6x4.5m meant I needed sizeable roof joists, unless I wanted to put a steel in. Hence needing to go to 3m

They was a nightmare. Wanted to know everything. Hoping to build an extension in a year or so,,, looking forward to that now, not

Weight worried me a bit too, I'm on a big slope, so it's timber base sitting on 12 concrete blocks, that sit upon concrete stacks, although they are 800mm deep

Went for planning to get to 3m. Wanted a cedar front and composite sides and back, planning officer wasnt keen on mixing materials. Wouldn't even allow 3 sides timber and the back in metal sheets, even though the house to the rear has 5 metre high screening trees

Yeah I've got 300mm overlap at front, 200 at back and 170 at sides, roof is flat but dual sloped due to size of build and keeping roof joists down in size. Tyvek wrapped and 2x1 battens for airflow. Bottoms rotting if running vertical worries me, so back to horizontal. Was trying to keep costs...

Now wondering if tongue and groove vertically would look neater

Would you stagger the boards randomly?

When you say teak strips, was that L shaped for the external corners

Looking at either shadow gap or shiplap timber cladding for my garden room. I've fit vertical battens. The length of the room is nearly 6m. If I get smaller lengths (3.6/4.8etc),what is the best way to create the seam, is it just a case of staggering the joints vertically or should I use some...

Lol. Bar area, mainly to watch sports and listen to music. Kids will no doubt want the PlayStation down there.