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One of the Pro's on here recommends bending the 2 shorter pins on the plug towards each other so that the plug can't be pushed into a socket. But, as Marty said, as long as it's unplugged it's safe.

Does the new switch have a metal faceplate? If so, you'll need to ensure that it's earthed. I believe the most conscientious way of doing it is to connect the earth wire, which is currently in the back box, to the faceplate and then have a short flylead connecting the faceplate to the backbox...

You'll need to earth the faceplate.

I believe RandomGrinch is suggesting that, as a test, you connect the Live and the Timer terminals together, also connect (via the plug) the Live terminal to 240v and the neutral terminal to 0v and see if the fan works. I wouldn't suggest having a link wire connected at 1 end to the Live...

I believe he means hold the "sharp" end of a screwdriver against the disc you want to remove and then tap (with a hammer) the handle end to knock the disc out.

Hopefully a correction to the above. Your notes say both switches have 4 holes across the top and 5 across the bottom. The photos of the new switches seem to show one as being upside down compared to the other. I'm by no means certain but I believe the downstairs switch is more likely to have 5...

Your notes show both switches as having 4 holes across the top and 5 across the bottom. I can't see the photos of the new switches very well but it looks to me as though the upstairs one has 4 holes across the top and 5 across the bottom. As JohnD says you have to be very careful about...

I'm afraid you're not going to like this. There's a thread which has similarities to your question: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/soakaway-question.635363 One of the replies in that thread says that it's really up to what your (and your neighbours) deeds say. In that thread the deeds...

BC is Building Control, it can be the Local Authority or a private company, they sign off that the work was done according to the building regulations.

If by that you mean there's a switch which controls only the fluorescents then I believe you connect the "floating" black in with the neutrals. When you supplied 240V to the fluorescents then they had no neutral connection so (what should have been) their neutral wire went up to 240V.

Deleted, as no longer relevant.

That isn't what securespark was asking. He's interested in whether the (20A, I think you said) MCB in the CU (aka fusebox) has 2 (or more) wires in it.

Just a suggestion, do as Harry suggests in #3, but use 80mm pipe below the new hopper. Doubtless there are other suppliers of such pipe, but one is: https://www.drainageonline.co.uk/above-ground-drainage/guttering/floplast-guttering/floplast-80mm-round-plastic-downpipe/80mm-round-downpipe-x-4m-rph4

These certainly used to exist. Like you I don't know what they were called nor do I know of any these days.

My guess is that the top pipe was originally installed for ventilation, but (obviously) could be used for other things. I reckon you've got a Buchan Trap (I expect there are other names/makers); is there always water in the outlet? If so, that's a U bend and above the outlet there's a second...

I believe that Military time is Z time and Zulu is in the Nato phonetic alphabet (Alpha, Bravo etc.) for Z. UK Military time is GMT, I couldn't say for definite about other countries. but Unix documentation talks about Zulu so I'd assume that the American military does as well.

Yes, each FCU will limit the current in the spur wire to, at most, 13A (largest fuse size). At that point I believe you're safe to use 1.5mm T&E for the spur cable. (I've, pedantically, changed your quote to say "an", not "and")

Does the toilet cistern have a separate overflow pipe? Comparatively old toilets usually had a side inlet on 1 side and the overflow in the corresponding position on the other so you could arrange the inlet to be whichever side suited you best. If it's easy to take off the cistern lid, look...

I take it you mean the light controlled by terminals COM1 and L11 is working correctly. If so, I'd suggest swapping the long brown that's in COM2 with the one that's in L22. Also, it looks to me that it's a metal faceplate so you must earth it using the earth terminal to the right.