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I believe this might be to avoid the "borrowed neutral" problem. If you've got 2-way switching and the upstairs lights are on a different RCD to the downstairs lights, then it's possible for a light to take it's power from the upstairs circuit but to have it's neutral wire on the downstairs...

Love the typo.

If I've understood what people have been saying: so a single 10mm2 (which you run everything off) or 2 by 6mm2. I assume you'd split the sockets between these 2 cables.

Just a suggestion, could you use a spacer such as: https://cpc.farnell.com/bg/817/pattress-box-1g-10mm-spacer/dp/PL08924 It's supplying 10mm when you're after 5 (but it might be all we can find). I'm sure other suppliers are available.

It might be worthwhile checking this website: https://www.fixthebog.uk/ and sending them photos.

If you use a blanking cover then that might not indicate a safe zone, whether adding one of these, link: https://www.electrium.co.uk/products/crabtree/catalog?main=AAG&man=0170&sub=AAB&pro=AAB&level=4 is sufficient to show a safe zone, I leave to others to decide.

I do believe your physics is a bit rusty. If you add heat to some water at 100C and turn it into steam then you've added a certain amount of heat. If you turn some water vapour at, say, 50C into liquid water (still at 50C) and (hey presto) you find you've got the same amount of water as you...

I'm no spark so can't comment on your idea, but normally people say that new CUs need notifying to your Local Authority's Building Control and it's nearly always cheaper to get it installed by a professional who can self-notify (via his trade body) than to pay the BC's fees.

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If you're going to connect your new switch to (the position of) the existing one by burying a cable then, I believe, you'll need to create a safe zone connecting them. People here reckon that a blanking plate doesn't do this. I leave it to others to say whether one of these (uses minimal...

I had assumed that, whatever the original intention was, in practice RCDs force us to correct minor (if there is such a thing) or intermittent faults before they have a chance to cause real danger.

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One of the regulars here who, unlike me, knows what he's talking about said in: https://www.diynot.com/diy/posts/4171551/ that you can wire the whole house in flex.

I imagine Eric meant a "torch" (a word he uses near the end) .

I'd say that's 10189, but I'm happy to be told I'm wrong.

Oh dear, I can feel myself getting into JohnW2's bad books again. When he said (in entry 44): I believe he meant "not available".

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I'm always a bit sceptical of figures gleaned from the web, but wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumen_(unit) says (in the final para under "Explanation") "A source radiating a power of one watt of light in the color for which the eye is most efficient (a wavelength of 555 nm, in the...

Breeno said: "so it will be ok to wire the below LEDs into the mains without transformer? https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-fixed-fire-rated-led-downlight-brushed-chrome-240lm-2-5w-240v/5708f" Ban_all_sheds said (in entry 5): Obviously you need to make any changes in a safe manner.