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The pressure is always fine when the boiler is not on or when it isn't heating from a really cold state. It gets to high when it is heating as fast as it can, so when it is cold.

I didn't stay in the room but I think he did as I heard water running.

it's not possible to leave the filling valve open on this boiler if you mean the filling loop as you have to apply downward presssure on the valve to refill it and when you let that go, it shuts off automatically. the boiler temperature is currently 58 degrees and the room thermostat is reading...

one thing i did notice when the engineer left was that the boiler kept turning off and I had to increase the room temperature setting on the thermostat to 34 degrees before it would turn on again. but after it got to 21 degrees, which is my normal setting, i turned the thermostat setting down...

I have made an appointment for British Gas to come back but thought I should ask around so I am more knowledgeable about the matter. So it could be something else causing the high pressure? As the engineer recharged the expansion vessel yesterday afternoon and it was fine after he did that...

My 7 year old Worcester Bosch combi is making a right racket and the water pressure is at nearly 3 on the gauge when it gets to its top temperature of 72 degrees. The water overflows to the outside constantly to relieve the pressure but it doesn't really work. I have a maintenance contract...

I have decided to use a normal light switch and keep the double pole switch for another use. Yeah, that doesn't sound very safe, even if I could understand it :D

Thanks. I have only ever seen the earth cable sheath in green and yellow or just yellow. Google says that old wiring had a green sheath for earth, but thought I should check. I have added an earth cable from the light switch to that hole in the wall as I saw a video that says a metal light...

i can tell if the lights are on by the position of the switch, but it means you need to look at it carefully and be within a short distance of the switch. with the indicator, I can tell from a distance away. I often forget to turn the lights off outside once I have turned it on, so I am...

that is clever but it will just confuse everyone, including me! also the neon indicator bulb will blow in no time as it would constantly be on since the outside light is rarely used.

By the way, that green wire is the earth wire as it is connected to the wall as shown in this photo, where it goes into that hole indicated by the red arrow. Did earth wire used to have this green sheath? They are yellow and green these days. That isn't a neutral wire is it? I mean, neutral...

yeah, i read that the double pole switch isolate the power when there is a leak by cutting off the live and neutral. however my outside switch doesn't have live and neutral so i can't use the double pole switch for its intended purpose and I am not cabaple enough to start fitting in a neutral...

yes, it does work, so when i switch the switch on, the outside light turns on and when i switch the switch off, the light outside turns off. however, the only reason i bought this double pole switch is that it has a neon indicator so i can see when the outside lights is on from inside my house...

this is the existing switch, which only has two wires. The green wire in the photo is the earth wire.

that's what i am thinking, that the neon needs the live and neutral to be connected for it to light up. problem is, the light switch only has live and switched live, so i have been told that the live go into supply live (L1) and switched live go into load live (L2) or both could go into the N1...

I fitted a double pole switch for the outside light and it works fine, with L1 and L2 connected (and N1 and N2 left unconnected). Problem is, the neon indicator light on the switch doesn't switch on when the switch is on. Is this because the N1 and N2 terminals are not connected? I know this...

:D

thank you. the crack is along the fold along the length of the shed where the bitumen is folded over the edge of the shed roof. so we are only talking about 1.5m lenth of crack and the crack is 1-2mm wide

are they for temporary rather than permanent repair? they are sold as permanent.

good point! glad I asked :giggle: