Search results

55m is a long way. Unless you’re doing something untoward right next to the window for a significant amount of time , it would be impossible to see any details from that distance. Without binoculars, anyway.

Sorry. The issue is tepid/variable water in all the basins and the shower. I got the engineer out as I thought it was a boiler issue. After trying a few things the engineer came to conclusion that there's a crossover in the shower.

He did say the water temp coming out of the boiler was good

Thanks. Should be covered by the investigation the engineer did? He took apart the exchanger as he'd assumed it was kaput. He took the filter out and cleaned that too.

Thanks that's really helpful. Just switch water off at the stop tap?

Is it part of the mixer or could it be anywhere on the pipes leading in?

Hi, a heating engineer came to fix my combi, but ended up concluding that there’s a hot/cold water crossover caused by the thermostatic valve in my shower (he checked the tsps and mixers on all the other basins ). However he ‘only does boilers’ so he didn’t want to touch the shower :rolleyes...

We put a downstairs loo in our old house and did exactly the same. No issues at all. It kept the noisy w/m out of the extension which was the open plan kitchen / lounger / diner

What do you want to do with the fireplace? Have you removed everything under the arch?

I’d be concerned about damaging/ disfiguring a nice wooden door by sticking stuff to it! Can you do as described in 1 and 4 to prevent draughts, and then add a thermal curtain in front?

Interesting video on fixing the GRP noise problem. Also read the comments : noise blamed on not enough fixings/not hitting the joists, lack of expansion joints, absence of vapour membrane under the insulation.

No nothing resolved. It is a case of living with it for now. The crappy builders left me with several other substandard issues that take priority. Interesting to hear you have same problem in a cold roof. If you get yours fixed please update this thread.

I only noticed a few months back that the top of the horizontal rail is totally unpainted. It looks like there was previously another piece of timber or similar cap fixed across the top for protection , but no idea what happened to it. As a temporary fix I have put some spare lead at both ends...

I've had a bash. It is ugly but it is working well: the split is closed and the bolt is now cleanly sitting in the socket. Thanks everyone. I used a combination of the suggestions because of 1. the hardware I already had, and 2.the issue that I couldn't place a bolt at the top end of the hinge...

the top holes in the hinge are within 25mm of the top of the post, so I don’t think i can get any fixing above that. I will put a long bolt through the hinge as suggested.

Thanks chaos, really helpful suggestions. See photos below, the post is nearly 110mm. How about i replace the existing 30mm screws with these 80mm beefy ones I have lying about? How deep should I drill through first? Danger of splitting the 1100 x 50mm post? Is it a good idea to still use PU...

The timber upright for this gate has split (possibly from scaffolding being laid across it some time ago). The door is sagging enough to affect the bolt, but looks like it could get worse. I was going to put a couple of bolts through the post to pull the split together. Does that seem a...

In the closeup, at the top of the stairs you can see what the bulge/fracture looked like before I raked out the crack. The bulging wasn’t apparent anywhere til a few months back,. That’s not to say it hadn’t been replastered and covered over with wallpaper by previous owners, but it doesn’t...

As above, standard 1930s semi with recent conversion. We’ve been in house 2 years, conversion was done 18 months ago. In last couple months , first the plaster along the stair skirting started cracking and now a gap has opened up (from approx 9th step upwards). Gap is approx 20mm now. Paint...

How was the ultrotherm through the winter? Big improvement?