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Cables are usually expected to be double-insulated or have an earthed metal sheath so I do suspect the sheath of T&E is tested. One of the few exceptions is H03VV-F flat twin flex, which probably falls under „reinforced insulation“ but is almost extinct anyway.

Me neither, which is why I suggested calling in a local spark and offering to dig the trench.

Then you need to figure out how the existing socket is connected, probably best to get an electrician to check. An electrician would probably be quite happy if you offered to do the digging and they‘d just have to lay the cable and connect it.

Fine dust (especially flour) can cause nasty explosions though if there‘s enough of it in the air, yet household packs of flour never have amy warnings. Presumably because you need a lot more than one pack to cause any serious danger.

Some fillers contain cellulose, so I assume the powder might be combustible. This one doesn’t seem to do though.

Are there any outside sockets? In that case you could run an armoured cable from there to the shed, although you might need a fused connection unit depending on how everything is wired.

As long as the Wagos are accessible, you could always spur from the Wagos in the future.

Since they mentioned the transformer being connected together with the bell push I'd definitely read it as the former - if they knew where the transformer is they could simply bridge its terminals and use batteries instead.

Anyone carrying out an EICR I suppose.

Considering most older installations had the cooker switch dead centre right above the hob/cooker, I really can't see anyone turning that off while a frying pan is on fire on that cooker. The only two purposes of cooker switches are isolating while working on a hard-wired appliance/replacing...

The problem is that Luisete needs to physically locate the old transformer in the house to be able to replace it.

This is just a guess but I‘d think there‘s a layer of metal or flame-retardant plastic behind the timber and there‘s definitely plastic around the contacts on the socket face. I‘d assume that’s what makes this type of socket acceptable.

That wouldn‘t comply for a new install, would it?

Not in the pictures but OP will need that since the switches won‘t fit standard ones.

Are we sure OP‘s question is about the house wiring rather than how to connect an earth wire to the old switches? In the latter case, drilling and tapping a hole for an M3 screw into the back box should do. Do the brass rings unscrew easily without tools? In that case I‘d be slightly concerned...

Yes, that's how they were usually wired, each button connected to one solenoid and the common of all solenoids wired to the bell. Last year I built a working late-20s setup (original transformer, bell, panel) on my bench as a demonstration. The panel was much less ornate than this one, just a...

The wires don’t actually look that ancient, maybe post-WWII. If the insulation doesn’t feel crumbly at the terminals I wouldn‘t worry about that part. In order to use a tone tracer you‘d need to find the wires at the panel. If you can’t find them, I‘d run new wires, pretty much anything will...

I‘d suspect the only countries requiring shaver sockets these days are those following UK regs to some degree. Unless you insist on having a socket in zone 2, then it needs to be a shaver socket in quite a few places. My gran‘s bathroom in Germany, wired in the mid-70s, had a shaver socket to...

I paid less than 90 Euros for mine and seem to remember it was the cheapest model on the European market then. It claims to withstand up to 400 V but from what I‘ve read on the internet you should definitely take that with a grain of salt.

The cheaper Testboy 26 definitely doesn’t work with single wires, which can be quite annoying.