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Replacement non smart meters are available, I don't know why these energy suppliers are stating otherwise and why it's a must for smart meters

+1 for GD being toxic

Have you searched "anatomy of a mortise lock" using images? I've just looked but several come up, but none similar to yours, as above, the make would be handy

Could be a little trapped air.

Yes, clear as mud

Ahh, I just took that as they had just put existing wires randomly into terminals

Might sound like a daft question, but any photos of the ceiling rose wiring?

And all kept in a pencil case rather than an expensive handbag? :LOL:

Sorry, I should have said, I didn't pay that price for the Irwin's, I only paid under £12. Plenty of others available cheaper than those.

Oddly enough before reading this post, I thought, hmm he usually responds to my posts, even if nobody else does. Hoping he is ok. We haven't heard from some in the CC either.

Being a gas engineer and tight (I'm sure I was born in Yorkshire :D) I use these along with this for flex.

I had some Haupa vde water pump pliers, sold them on eBay as didn't see the need for them. Prefer Knipex for pump pliers.

You can still do it, just yours is round as opposed to the hexagonal types. Be careful, use water pump pliers or similar to back it off. Maybe clean the brass on the spindle using a cleaning strip.

I work I social housing and the amount of times I’ve seen similar is frightening. Customers who have inadvertently knocked their boiler fcu switch off and these are in plain sight, but still call us out for no heating or hot water. At least yours was hidden to be accidentally knocked.

I do normally have a look and usually make sure it’s tight too. We have an option to pass it on if it’s not visible, I just wanted to know if the test I’m doing is ok. Vast majority of our properties have the connection where needed. However, some of our sparks aren’t arsed about it being after...

I usually get 0.2 or 0.3 ohms. Not sure if it’s the setting on my auto ranging mm.

Yes, that should be fine to swap out without issue.

I attended a job the other day and couldn’t visually see the main bonding connection and tbh didn’t have the time to pull the washing machine out and check. Is there a way to test if there’s a connection, or does it need to be visually inspected? Aside: I sometimes have to connect the bonding...

What did your installer say?

They’re usually ok to work on hot water as they circulate around the plate heat exchanger same as using it in summer mode. Your mates must have been something different. They usually have sensors/ntcs to prevent overheating