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Have you tried a plunger? I take it you’ve had the trap apart? Have you tried boiling water and soda crystals?

Unsheathed is generally cpc/earth. You also need a grommet for that bottom cable.

As the username implies I’m a country music fan now, used to be massive Indie, always loved my rock. I can’t say I’ve ever bought an album without hearing at least one of the songs on the radio. Jelly roll has good covers

Not sure why it’s controversial.

Sounds more like a sticking motorised valve imo. Do you know the make/model? If not, can you post a photo of them?

So will have reduced it down to approx 13mm with the insert, still shouldn't affect it though as flexi's are reduced sometimes too and they don't do the same.

Is there an isolation valve for it?

Me neither, but think thy have dropped a ball with this one. Tbh, I wouldn’t give JG or their parent my money after a recent issue. Note, it doesn’t say potable though

Maybe it's the rubber washer that would be in contact with the water that would be unsuitable?

Check for correct voltage, ribbon cable, et al. Else as above, could be pcb.

F62 and F22 are not related, unless you start to get other spurious faults along with them. F62 isn’t a DIY fix and wouldn’t be wide for me to say what it is on an open forum. Is the heating circuit pressurised/sealed?

Maybe use a different manufacturer, or better still, use compression or solder it - problem solved. Not all WRAS approved stuff can be just installed, not a lot of people know they come with IRN’s as well.

Maybe put some weight in the shower tray whilst re-sealing it and double seal it, as in apply one coat, allow to dry and apply another on top of that?

What for?

You’ll have 2 which are both operable - one for the hot water fed via the combi, the other being for heat for rads and cylinder. As we’ve mentioned the cylinder needs to be 60 to prevent legionella, so unfortunately, unless you can use the immersion over summer, then that radiator temperature...

If it’s 27, then that’s far too low to heat a cylinder which is set for 60 degrees, so boiler temperature would need to be approx 65 to reach the 60, depending on runs and insulation.

I think you have 2 motorised valves as one will be heating and the other to control the heated water to the cylinder. Lack of resistance is usually an indicator that the valve is open, but if it’s not energising the microswitch then that’s likely why you have insufficient hot water. You could...

It doesn’t look like it will be and it’s 110mm used normally.

Should be ok, and does look cemented in. Once the pan is dislodged, you should be able to remove the drain connection easily.

Does this help? https://www.wernerco.com/uk/step-ladders/740Series/7400418L