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As already mentioned, if you have 3 bar incoming pressure you should still have 2.3 bar at a height of 7m. There will be a little extra pressure loss due to resistance of pipes and fittings but there will still be more than enough pressure for a good shower. If you have poor flow, the problem...

Well you clearly know best. Obviously the water regs are there to restrict your freedom to do what the hell you like and not to help ensure adequate supply and water quality for everyone. If you are looking for validation for breaking the rules, you're in the wrong place.

Not backflow FROM your house. In theory you could be pulling water from a main which has no pressure in it. This could lead to backflow into the main from elsewhere. The water regulations have to take into account possible risks even if you think they are unlikely.

Probably fitted thousands. Sadly not all outlets are protected and leaks on the main certainly aren't. When you install your shower pump are you going to go round to all your neighbours and ensure every outlet is protected.

3 bar at ground level would still be giving you 2.3 bar at a height of 7m. Should be adequate for a decent shower. If the flow from the shower is poor, it is more likely to be restrictive pipes and fittings and not lack of pressure. As for pumping off the main, you run the risk of reducing the...

It will be detachable from inside the cistern. Usually a twist and lift or a couple of clips. Not sure on that one but, as I remember, the Geberit website has some instructional videos. If you have no luck and have to remove the cistern, replace with a fluidmaster...

You can buy the diaphragms from plumbers merchants. Usually need a bit of trimming to size. Or as Andy says, make up from suitable plastic sheet.

In all my years of installing, servicing and maintaining combi boilers, I have never come across anyone who found this to be an issue in real life. Unless you're taking very long showers, I doubt you would even notice the fact that the CH was down for a few minutes. In fact, the most up to date...

There will either be a grub screw under the lever or opposite the lever. If the lever has to be removed, try wrapping it in a few turns of insulating tape or duct tape to protect the chrome and then use a pair of grips.

There will be a small rubber disc inside the cap which gives the seal. It is possible that this seal has perished. The seal can be replaced but you will need to drain the header tank or bung the feed and vents to stop the water. For the moment, wrap in a towel to soak up leakage until you can...

Its a manual vent not an automatic one. Tighten the cap a bit with a pair of pliers.

Regular use is essential for clicker wastes. If you usually shower and the bath waste doesn't operate for months on end, it'll seize up. Same with basin wastes. Never have reason to fill a basin so clicker waste locks up with crud.

Don't touch the unvented cylinder components. As terryplumb says, you are not qualified to do it. Also, if you tamper with it, the landlord or their agents will likely then blame you for any problems they find and will send you a bill for repairs.

Are they the auto adjusting type? Possibly too clever for their own good. I've had Knippex before. Very good but expensive and I have a bad habit of losing tools. Have had these for a while and they are good enough and cheap. https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-water-pump-pliers-10-254mm-/9689v

If your heating doesn't work, pester your landlord until they sort it out. It is their responsibility and part of what you pay all that rent for. They should also explain how to control the system and how to do basic maintenance like topping up system pressure if relevant.

In a combi or unvented set up, all outlets share the incoming mains water so that has to be your starting point. Get it tested for pressure and flow rate because if it can't supply enough water, neither option will give you what you are after. A cold water tank, vented cylinder and pumps can...

If you want a combi and an unvented to supply hot water at the same time, the mains cold water supply needs to be up to the job. If you currently experience a drop in shower performance if a toilet is flushed or a cold tap opened, then it is likely that you could spend a lot of money for very...

Wrap the pipes in felt or foam insulation and fill the void with a sand cement mix. Hopefully the 15cm is pipe centres.

If the cistern is filling really slowly and its spraying, it is likely to be a Siamp fill valve. Does it look like this one...

Yes, those are the mounts. I'd use copper but plastic should be fine if used correctly and inserts are used. No wiggle room on the 150mm centres as those are the pipe centres on the bar valve. I have a piece of plywood with 2 holes drilled the correct distance apart which I use to hold the...