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If the box is mounted on a joist or similar and then the cable clipped with a cleat just before it enters, then all would be ok. Terminate the cable inside as I don't think the blocks would fit inside it, could be wrong though.

Every time a telecom O&M engineer visits to complete maintenance or complete faults & annual electrical maintenance which lasts three hours on each visit the tubes should last years & years.

I can't help thinking the hall could do with painting White rather than be left as Grey block work as light would reflect off the walls. Maybe as suggested by Frodo installing panels would give a more even spread of light but it is a different quality of light compared to old style Fluorescent.

Although I understand Flameports views on this matter, the company I work for has a view on trying to reduce waste and re-use equipment. I have worked on a NRTS National Highways contract and part of that is maintaining Transmission Stations (TS). We had a project to swap out fluorescent tubes...

How big is the hole you wish to poke said cable down? I think what you've suggested will be adequate, maybe tape it up as an extra precaution.

I use nothing other than them now, I find them much easier to terminate cables especially the Ashley boxes with cable fixings too.

They are & Murdo didn't quote Dave's post but blup's:unsure:

Just out of interest can you post a photo of what's been done already?

Contact whoever installed it if possible and ask them to check the ring final on the Ground sockets

Sounds like a large overload to me, possible cable damage shorting out somewhere. Rodents or similar. I think the ring circuit needs to be removed from the RCBO and thoroughly tested by an electrician not a DIY option i'm afraid

Make sure it isn't live and try to pull out as much of it as you can & do what JJ said, I'd cut it at an angle so there's no chance the conductors can touch one another.

TLC Link For Wago aren't the ideal ones the same size? Personally I'd use Ashley boxes https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ803.html

Better a false positive than false negative!

What power ratings are the new Oven and Hob going to be? What is the point of the Fused spur here?

In the first instance You could just use a multi meter to see if there's continuity between the outer core and central "stinger" by putting the leads on one end and shorting the other end out Screwfix do this these for Network testing though...

Has the shower got over run with a condensation sensor? I used anti condensation paint in our bathroom that contains small fibre glass fibres that make the wall warmer to touch.

I guess the current takes the path of least resistance

Re-terminate the Live while you're at it, too much copper is showing. I'd at least expect a stuffing gland to hold the cable in place

Did the grey not have any type of Blue Sleeving on it?

Where is the screw gone from that terminal? L_W Live Wire? Is there any kind of PIR device on the outside light?