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Lampholders used to be marked T1 or T2 but was usually inside and barely visible, it was quite common for one type .to burn out with the old !50W tungsten lamps. The weight is also determined by the flex size, there's actually a Table in the regs for that. It's also a useless fact that a...

Would it need Earthing ? I assume it's no more than 24VOLT

The post suggests to me it's only 1 cable, so possibly already a spur.

The cef one was on the ceiling and as you say the pir side worked fine however the timer was only about 5 seconds unlike the 20 minutes quoted in the instructions. That also said you need a remote? to adjust them which was no help

The "code " on them is actually the UK postcode and it does indeed come up with Prime light who are actually a Uk company, amongst other businesses in that area in North London. NW10. Though may originally not be of uk origin. They are on brand new fittings on a site, I have yet to...

Screwfix do them quite cheap BG WP22 and often on offer, about 12 pound a unit, this week there actually £9.99 though the Bg white socket alone that fits Inside uses just 2 screws and removed in seconds is about 4 quid as its got neons bit harder to get though, if you can go without the neons...

Dependant on the type of flex used, its been in the regs since the 17th edition that ferrules should be used on certain types of fine or multistrand wire

How do you adjust this, I had similar from cef once and the instructions said you need a remote. This one has no instructions Yes I know I could contact prime light or Google the postcode and go there and ask :giggle:

A hager j803 junction box as it needs to be maintenance free as it is inaccessible, bear in mind if the box or any of the cable is less than 50mm deep it will still need to remain in a safe zone once the initial sockets removed

The female version is better, a short bit of rigid conduit to join it to the besa box, then screw the flexi glands that Harry suggests into the thread, throwing the bush aside

If the box is still sound you can get just the guts in the same brand snd fit it in your housing for a fraction of the cost. Bg snd mk are the common types and can be easilyb swopped out in the old box once removed, takes about 2 minutes

Why not use 20mm threaded galv boxes and lids, or easier use threaded plastic wiska boxes and make your own junctions

There's no electrical regulation sgainst it I believe, but the guidance notes regarding building regs, I recall mention they should be fixed to the fabric of the buillding

Could you not wire that suspect choke fitting on its own to one of your spare rcds and see if it trips that on its own

Would you have a spare rcd rattling about, 2 pole latching like in the old consumer units, maybe fit temporary half way round the circuit, if lucky may trip and help break down the faulty, if any, part of the circuit, as its your property sure it can be fitted in a safe manner.

How did you test the rcd, may be worth testing first with the load connected and all switched on, then with the load disconnected from the Rcd. See if theres a substantial difference. Before the days of rcds it was guite common for magnetic chokes to breakdown, sometimes even burning up...

8 foots were an odd fitting, they came in a few versions, 100w seemed to be the most temperamental, they also eerimented using 2 half chokes, meaning each tube used 2 chokes and twin units had series capacitors to eliminate strobing. They I recall were quite problematic if the wrong tube or...

Any new socket would also need Rcd protection

The 18w 2ft tube is WARM WHITE GE colour 29 if that matters