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When the spurs are on the end they will form a vertical safe zone, the bottom 700mm or so is likely surface behind units so exempt from being in safe zones

On a ceiling in a restaurant

Some are actually plumbed in with hot water and just have a fan, the smaller electric ones have a total of 3kw internal elements, 3 phase jobbies can be 9kw or more. The theory I believe is as they say it forms a curtain, in reality I think it's a large expense for little reward

10mm x 1mm pitch threads are commonly used for lighting so likely unscrews, however cutting and rethreading the square bar may not be easy. Round lighting threaded 10mm bars are available in many options , if that's a suitable option

G9 are mains voltage

A small plastic connecter chocblock thingy may fit onto that hook thing

Possibly the council hsve now put an led bulb in, if it was a normal bulb before, it may not be designed to work with a led bulb @Andrave2 You should have started a new post really

The 2 core red is the supply to the switch that you say is the 1 gang Hall light, just locate that 2 core red at the actual hall light fitting. That's the main wire you need to test, nothing else. This was established ages ago

That light is where the supply to the switches comes from, post a pic of that

Looks OK, as previously asked does the one way switch (left one with 2 holes in use) do anything on the other 2 gang switch

Surely any bathroom light with a sensor would do, just tap into the wire between the sensor and the driver

I done a pub swingsign about 30 years ago with 1.5 yellow artic flex on a 10 metre catenery. I still drive past it, the cables now black from London traffic and most hangers have broke or bunched up and the flex is sagging, but still hanging in there, though not sure if the lights still...

Often the power to the third room comes from the second room via the round bases mounted on the ceiling, it is quite common for a cable to come adrift if it was loose in the first place, usually after its disturbed

Thanks I was a bit concerned putting 12v across the leds as thought may be a bit much. I bought them a few years back and never fitted them till now and when I plugged in the controller it screeches and no lights. It did start to work briefly for a few minute's and I quickly checked It...

There's also a possibility there was wall lights at one time, also look for 2 amp sockets at low level sometimes installed for table lamps

I'm not sure its possible to wire the 3 cables as they are and work as you describe if there was 2 switchlines for your 2 lights. Yes you could wire it wrong to get 1 switch doing both lights on/off as normal but the second switch would always turn off 1 light whilst the first switch is on...

I have some decklights and controller has conked out. This controller was fed with 18vdc I also have plenty of power supplies mostly 12 volt dc and also ones for lower dc Voltages. Each light has 4 wires and , I'm quessing from bits found on internet 1 wire is +ve and the other 3 are -ve for...

May be a daft question but what would be the consequences of just fitting coax plugs on each end, of a cat5 cable say 2 pairs for the outer amd one pair for the core pin

If unable to resolve the simplest way is to use one standard type dimmer and one standard 2 way switch, may not give the look you desired and will obviously only adjust at one point but without going down a more complex route of master and slaves or WiFi, your existing wiring is likely to...

I think your right, it looks like a new cut out on a. Old cable, I wonder if that stuff is serping off the actual cable