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It’s cladding on the outside (dormer conversion) so will go with the mastic option. Thanks!

Sorry, I might not be being clear. There is a metal cylinder that runs through the wall. There is no gap between the outside circumference of this and the wall. The actual flue itself is a much thinner pipe that runs through the metal cylinder. So there is a gap between the flue and the metal...

Yeah it’s got foam going round it. So no issues there. I guess it lets a draft in not being flush as well. As the flue goes through the metal cylinder but with a big gap round it.

Hey all Not sure what the part is called but there is a big gap between it and the metal part of the flue. The reason is that the metal casing is sticking out at the bottom more than the top. Is this an issue? I could cut the metal back a bit so it’s flush but not sure how necessary it is...

Hey Unfortunately not. I think the only thing to be done which I haven’t done myself is just fill it full of mastic. Yeah clips look similar. They may be quite brittle because of the age so warm water may help. What worked for me was taking the front face out first. Then tapping it down at...

Have you got an example? My worry is that it’s going to be difficult to fit around the little alcove but I assume I’d have to stick some corner beading on and silicone it pretty heavily so water doesn’t get behind it? Is there not a special paint that’s waterproof?

Hey everyone Finally coming towards the end of my shower room. Laid the last tiles today. Will be grouting and installing everything during the week. However, it’s a dormer and the ceiling is low. I’ve made as much height as I can by dropping the shower tray into the floor. Unfortunately...

Yeah the ones I’ve got have been doing it. But it’s pulling the board down further so couldn’t use the full force. I’ll play it safe and use the bit so it doesn’t crack the board.

If it was wood that would have been my first thought. Hadn’t considered that for cement board. Got a relatively new countersink bit so hopefully it’s still usable after! I’ll wait until tomorrow to do it so it’s full set and I don’t disrupt the bonding.

Thanks for your help! It went better than expected. I’m just waiting for it to set now. It’s slow set so think I’ll ob1 the tray down tomorrow. It was hard not to let the screws pull it down too much so a lot are sitting proud of the cement board. Is it best to take these out or drive them in...

Cheers Madrab. Much appreciated. So I’m fine to use flexible tile adhesive underneath the cement board? I’ve not got experience with latex additives so will probably steer clear of those and hope the flex in the tile adhesive is enough. Should I Sbr the ply and joists before the adhesive and...

Hoping I’ll be ok with the joins. The adhesive they recommended is an expanding one so fingers crossed it properly filled the joins. I take your point on the ob1 I was a bit worried that it may crack the tray by the walls because of how strong it is. I researched the silicone as well and...

Cheers. Appreciate the advice. On the walls I’ve used the nomoreply foam core cement boards and used their sealing adhesive on all the joins. From what I read, and correct me if I’m wrong, but that should be as good as tanking it anyway. I was going to put a decent bead of ob1 behind the tray...

I think I’m going to go the cement board route. For the sake of £20 I’d rather be belt and braces. I think it’s just a plastic one. It wasn’t expensive but it’s a low profile one which is what I needed for the height issue. It’s not heavy. I’ve got a power planer but it’s the ply sticking...

Hi I’ve got a tile tray and I’m planning to lay it on the floor pictured. I’ve inset the ply between the joists as I’m trying to minimise any height increase (dormer with low roof). The more I look at it the more I think it’ll move too much. The ply is 18mm and is attached with some battens...

Thanks Wayners. Yeah it’s pretty solid with no movement. I’ve plug and screwed them and on some smaller pieces just gripfilled them. Couple of the big sections may have a little bit of give but can get some foam in those bits no problem. Does toupret crack less than caulk then? I assumed it...

Hey I’ve read some threads on here and seen various recommendations. I’m not sure which to go with. Most of the threads are for quite large gaps. My gaps max out at 5-7mm. Would I go with caulk or would you recommend using some toupret or easifill? I couldn’t work out from the other threads...

Thanks Wayners. Maybe I misunderstand what zinsser 123 does. I assumed it operated in a similar manner to bin but 123 being water based and bin being a shellac? The paint I’ve been using for my skirting boards is crown trade fast flow quick dry satin. I had tried coating it before but it’s gone...

Hi Appreciate this has been asked numerous times. I’ve read the threads but a lot of them are over 10 years old. I’m hoping there are some easier methods now. I’ve got some window sills and handrails to paint over. They’re varnished in finish. The window sills I’m fine with sanding down. I’ve...

Yeah it’s all fine underneath. Screwing into the floorboards and won’t really go past them plus no cables or pipes sitting just under the boards. Thanks for the tip. Offset makes sense.