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I don't have any direct experience of fitting secondary glazing. It might be prudent to start another thread for advice with regards to secondary glazing. Over the years, I have worked in a few houses in central London with timber sliding sash windows and secondary glazing. I didn't notice any...

At a guess, as others have suggested, there may have been wet towels etc stuffed part of the way down the back of the rad. That would have prevented the convection currents rising up past the back of the rad. Now that you have removed the rad, I would not expect the problem to come back...

OB1 is UV resistant. The other windows- caulk prior to painting will be fine. Again, the longevity is function of the degree of condensation.

Good point. Tnx.

I have only ever owned two small compressors, both with very, very small reservoirs. neither would have been sufficient for sand blasting. They were fine for 18g pin guns though.

If it is concrete lintel my advice would be to use a four flute SDS bit. You risk hitting the metal rod inside it. The last time I did that with a twin flute bit, it snapped the head. I purchased some Makita Nemesis bits. They cut through the reinforcing bar with ease. The hole didn't deviate...

As a decorator, I have had customers with walls and ceilings which they wanted to be repainted because of mould. I try to explain to them that they need to increase air flow. Waterbased eggshell will minimise the risk of mould. The downside is that any condensation will run down the wall...

I would assume that each panel is powder coated, why do (other) people assume there will be continuity? Perhaps continuity might be achieved via the screws through the panels. I dunno. I do not understand why posts on this sub forum become so combative- and fair play for ducking out- I don't...

A 5" random orbital sander with 100-150 grit paper is likely to give you a flat (flater) finish. Connecting it to a dust extractor (read: vacuum cleaner) will help to reduce the risk of the paint overheating and gumming up. That said, if the orange peel is very pronounced and a previous coat was...

I do have some of the Wooster roller frames but haven't used their sleeves for ages. For years, no one north of the river Thames (in west London) used to sell their products. The upper end Wooster products are pretty much on par with the upper end Purdy products (brushes and rollers). I am...

The size should be fine (btw the way I am a decorator). To be honest, most of the time, I roll a full fat coat of powdered based paste on the wall and then paste the paper with the same paste. I do a few drops at the same time to ensure that even on hot days the wall will be wet even if the...

One of my many pet hates is people who wind the flex around the power tool without leaving any slack at the end where it enters the tool. My last SDS drill purchase was a Metabo. I was impressed to see that the strain relief boot is "articulated". That is a clumsy way of saying that where it...

In my experience, internal breaks are more likely to occur where the cable enters the tool rather than at the plug end.

One of my 25m extension leads has a rigid "strain" relief. Every few months I would have to cut the cable back because of non visible breaks in either the live or neutral. On site one day, I cut away the supposed strain relief. It has been fine since then.

So both faces even when installing a DGU in timber? I had always, perhaps, incorrectly, thought that they should only be held captive on one side to allow each pane of glass to move, or is the case that the the butyl allows movement of both sides? Again, tnx

Not my area of expertise but I have never seen a Yagi Uda like that before. I think @Lucid will be able to advise you further.

If there is no seal, I would expect the glass to rattle when you tap it. An easy way to test would be to push a filler knife in and see how deep it goes.

Ahh... that is what it is called. Tnx. I take it that you only use it on the outer face. Do you let it sit slightly proud and trim the excess to prevent water pooling? Sorry for all the questions. I have only used tube based sealants in the past.

I suspect that the timber has been subject to condensation. Is the timber soft to the touch when you try to push a screwdriver into it. If not, I would use caulk or a MS polymer such as CT1. That said, any "fix" is likely to fail in time if you have condensation on cold days.

I think you are correct. And it looks like the silicone might have a gap in it. I suspect the joiner/fitter will simply apply silicone around the glass on the outside. I would be inclined to specify a clear MS polymer instead of silicone. I say that as a decorator. Paint does not adhere to...