Search results

It is a very confusing picture. The damaged component is on a reel and does appear to be a hose while in the top RH corner of the picture is what looks more like a cable.

Aren't there safe zones for gas and water pipes as well as cables?

As Denso says in any room without adeqate natural ventilation ie a window normally, then one of the building rgulations ( though I can't quote you which one ) states you must have forced mechanical ventilation. The normal method of doing this is to have an extractor fan connected to the light...

It won't need to have frozen. Those elbows go very brittle with age and condensate running through them.They break easily if moved or knocked. If the joints have been solvent welded it will be difficult to replace it so try something like JB Weld to repair it first.

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/how-to-remove-a-trv-lockshield-valve-without-bleeding-whole-system.656867/page-2#post-6245964

Do you mean 2 way or 2 gang switch for both? Some leds are not suitable for dimming so you would need to establish if the ceiling light is or isn't. The wall lights would need to be disconnected and insulated at both ends presuming it is a 2 gang not a 2 way.

Should do if applied properly but as there don't appear to be any exposed cores then you only need mecanical protection ( from future log falls ) and tape would be adequate

I don't think you will be having the back pointed then

If you don't want to drill but just want something to fasten ties to ,have you thought about using these in the posts...

Glad it worked out well. I got mine for free from a neighbour as it was going for scrap. Got it going but had to buy a new deck ( no welding facilities ) and belt for it so it actually cost just over £200. Lasted about 10 years after which I had no future use for it and couldn't get a new...

Well done.

A google search throws up plenty of them. Not sure it will even stick to cables

It might have jammed because they work on a type of ratchet that hooks on when closed then a spring takes the tension off and latch is released when you press down again ( difficult to put into words). Just undo the plastic waste pipe and there will be a large nut holding the rest into the basin...

Looking at the picture of the gable there appears to be something running along the mortar 2 courses above the larger window. Obviously I have no idea from looking at pictures but water can penetrate brickwork either through the bricks or mortat joints. Or it could be getting into the cavity at...

Take the waste out from underneath.

Yes I've seen that video too.

Been retired for a long time now but £1800 is around the figure I might expect for what seems like quite a lot of work. As I said in my first post it is getting difficult to get quotes especially in rural areas, I'm stuggling to get quotes foe a new boiler. Just make sure your quote accuratly...

Just a guess but I would suspect they may have been built without cavity trays above the windows. Or do you get a lot of condensation on the surface of the reveals. Or is it worse after heavy driving rain.

It's ususally advised to get 3 estimates before starting a job. That seems to be getting increasingly difficult these days but who ever is doing the job should give you one.

There are also gas "appliances" but no idea who monitors their safety. Appliance engineers are supposed to, or used to have to do Pat testing after every repair. Not sure if that is what you are refering to.