Search results

Something else to try, run the CH at its present temperature, then turn the set point (target) temperature down rapidly by say 10C, this will trip the burner but the circ pump will continue to run and the zone(s) valves will remain open, see if the noise remains the same.

In both cases above, just check that its not something as daft as the flow and return pipes installed incorrectly. You can also note the set flow temperature and keep reducing it until (and if) the noise subsides.

Can you post a clearer view of the Pump details or if you can read them just post the details. The cold flowrate is 4.0LPM at a dP of 0.2bar, 2.0/1.8bar. You probably need at least 8LPM and preferably 10LPM when mixing with cold, if a shower then the mixing will take place at the lowest of the...

A £10 drill pump should do the job if you de pressurize the EV first.

Can you post a photo of this manifold with the pump running showing its LEDs, can then see what mode&setting its on, do they compare with the other correctly operating manifold's pump LEDs?, unfortunately, the UPS2 doesn't display the pump power which is quite useful as the flowrate can be...

Can you post a photo of the manifold with its TMV & pump showing its flow direction, also model/mode/setting, also TMV "make".

There are two types of membranes, one, which seems to be more used on larger capacity EVs as used say on UVCs is sandwitched in the "middle", the other is a like a baloon and just shoved in through a flange on the water end, often wondered why this type doesn't be noisy as when the EV is...

Replace with a OSO, no baffle, and the air bubble seems to last just as long as the baffled ones, you can also remove the dip tube and install a expansion vessel if a increase (~ 20%) in capacity is ever required.

Disconnecting at the EV confirms that there is no water in the EV but reasonably OK to assume if not disconnected.

If the bottom of the EV is above the top of the UVC, shut cold water supply to the UVC, open hot tap to depressurise, break and disconnect the outlet from the EV, re pressurise, (pre charge) to 2.8bar. If bottom of UV below top of UVC carry out similar procedure until HW stops draining, then...

You know where your new lever valve is, maybe disconnect here and try using compressed air to push any debris back through the system, they could connect to different outlets with the others shut off. I suppose there is no way that a combined lever/check valve was installed, and "backwards"??.

Do you get good flow if you disconnect the pipe immediately downstream of the lever valve, at least this will tell you if the blockage is downstream or upstream of it?.

Well. Something must be telling the pump to run on for a minute, if the cylinder heating is on and the cylinder stat is satisfied what does the pump do?

If you mean that "the room stat turns if OFF the boiler" and the pump continues to run continuously then something wrong if wired like you say it is, see schematic below, my oil fired boiler (no pump overrun) is wired similarly, then when the roostat is satisfied or programmed off, the zone...

Was that UPS3 installed with the original system ~ 7 years ago?, if so, and has been running on speed 3 since, then its simply incredible that you havn't had all sorts of pump over/air ingress problems in your OV system as this is a very powerful pump and will still run at a 6.4M head at...

It is very unusual with a gas fired boiler not to have pump overrun + a ABV (automatic bypass valve) for a a few minutes when the boiler stops, the pump would then be fed from the boiler, most of which hve the facility to provide power to the pump for this overrun time, however you have lived...

Can you see what type of vent & cold feed arrangement you have, you don't say whether oil or gas fired with external circ pump?, your system may look something like the attached (close coupled) where from the boiler flow, you have the Vent then the Cold feed (no more than 150mm from the vent)...

The kitchen tap takes ages even though nearest the HW cylinder but upstairs bath & shower do not, so one would think the kitchen tap run is the shortest?, pipe run etc' Only other thing I can think of (if not X over which apparently it isn't) is that the kitchen tap and the other, even when...

Do you have isol valves to the kitched tap and/or the bathroom tap?, if so close the hot one, put the lever valve to fully hot and see if any water comes out. Its very unlikely but your installer may have installed a isol lever valve on the cylinder HW outlet, if so, shut it and repeat the above.

Can you shut off the mains cold into the unvented cylinder, should be a lever valve upstream of that valve group and then confirm that there is no cold water coming from any of the taps. Are the (slow) kitchen and upstairs bathroom sink taps one lever mixers or are the hot and cold taps...