Search results

The floor will undulate, the skirts are probably installed level. Only option would be to remove skirts and scribe the bases to the floor level - a nightmare.

What flooring do you plan to fit over these?

Feather is used to smooth the joints/sunken screws, Screed like Mapei Rennivatiin can be used to level the floor. Assuming it’s a bathroom with seperate raised shower tray or a bath so it’s just spilt moisture hitting the floor, silicone sealant will be fine to the edges. If it’s a wet...

As long as it is open grain, use the floor oil of your choice, but you’ll want to test an area first.

That's fine if it's as per manufacturers instructions, in 30 years in flooring retail, I'm yet to come across a solid tongue and groove product that the manufacturer says can be floated.

Commercial grade clip system floor a very different system to what most people will have access to to install in a domestic property, to be more specific, Tongue and Groove Solid oak shouldn’t be floated if that helps clarify things.

If it’s a lacquered floor you can’t do anything at all without sanding it. Don’t varnish it. If it’s an open grained finish - oiled or waxed - you can use floor oil on it, if your not sure, try an inconspicuous area and see if the oil soaks into the grain or sits on the surface.

Over UFH the LVT needs to sit 10mm above the UFH.

It could be a Lacquered, oiled or waxed floor, it’s unlikely to be varnished. If it’s lacquered then it has a polyurethane wear coat over the wood itself, this needs sanding off back to the wood and then a treatment can be done. If it’s oiled or waxed then a light sand/key then floor oil...

Solid wood can’t be floated.

Use Ardex DPM it’s good practice not to mix manufacturers products with sandwich Screed/DPM.

You can lay it either way, there’s actually specific gripper for felt back that doesn’t have nails to grip the backing but for the price, use what you have and plenty of spray adhesive around the edges.

How much is the floor flexing? Is it noticeable when you walk on it or is it more a visual thing from a distance away? Is there any noise when you walk on the area like a 'clicking' for example?

That floor very likely needs a a liquid DPM coat before any screed or flooring goes down. You’ll need to moisture test with at least a protimeter and preferably a hydrometer box

A conservatory environment will be very harsh on Engineered Wood even if it's UV oiled. LVT will be fine if a glue down system is uesd with a high temperature adhesive, avoid click LVT in such an area. Ceramics or Stone best for appearance retention but like a freezer in winter. Quality...

The reason to fit the skirtings first with Glue-down LVT is that the floor preparation work can then be done to the skirting and any un-eveness to the bottom of the skirting will be hidden. Glue down LVT needs no expansion gaps and quality LVT fitters will take pride in being able to cut...

If you plan to run it over the step and down the face of the first riser, it will only ever sit at 45 degrees, not 180 degrees like you are holding it! Of course if it runs fully over the first riser ‘waterfall’ running the wrong way, the design will be different to the direction on the rest of...

They are both ‘correct’ General rule of thumb IF the carpet opens over the nose run the ‘wrong’ way is fit it the Other way with a join. Some wool carpets will run the ‘wrong’ way without opening up, it’s generally accepted you may get premature loss of appearance/wear at the top step. If...

Ulster Axfelt65 is a lovely natural felt underlay but there’s not much wrong with the spec you have already.

We always advise if you run through a doorway in one and if problems occur, a profile can be fitted retrospectively, the flooring manufacturers will always spec a threshold but if installed correctly you probably won’t experience any issues