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This is a detached house, I don’t want to fit an outside aerial, and there is no cmineynor suitable wall. If I were to fit ‘on’ a wall I’d need to add 10’ pole . My choice is a loft aerial, I’ll see if I can optimise direction and pitch to make sure it as good as can be. I contacted ‘Aerials &...

I don't wish to mount it outside ... only possible locations would put it lower than it is now. Thanks for the suggestion of Sat dish or freely TV .. .prefer to stick with Freeview. I'll try a test & adjust in case I can improve .... perhaps it has moved since install.

Cable already in place - pre-wired with CT100

Unfortunately not an option. This was why on Aerialsandtv. I saw that XB10A is ideal for loft mount. quality allways shows as over 95%

I did look .. nothing on playstore …maybe not available for Android

Thanks for feedback on meter. As to move out of loft I can’t do that unfortunately, has to stay in loft.

My current aerial (fitted in loft) is an XB5 and been advised that an XB10A is right aerial for Kilvey Hill and will give me much improved reception.

I do have an Amazon Fire TV box, not as good as direct to TV

Typically 66% on the ones that break up.

My current aerial was put in by pointing in the direction of Kilvey Hill ..... and I adjusted for best reception. just wanted to align better if I buy a new aerial. Where I live is not a strong signal area - SA10 6HR Unfortunately there is part of village (confirmed in maps above) which is...

On TV it shows strength at 66%. Quality 97%

Occasionally getting breakup on some channels, so I intend putting in a newer aerial. Obviously makes sense to align it optimally. I see many ‘bands’ of alignment meters, that all look like made in same factory …these are digital supply with 4 strength led’s ( eg Proception at ToolStation is...

I used rotary brushes in a drill … so got rid of anything loose.

I realise what it is, I could get 500ml of KURUST delivered cheaply next day ..... was happy to pay £6 Nice pretty colour where it has been active.

I appreciate your explanation, but I won't go that route, (no tub big enough, no 20A charger) I have removed all loose rust with severe power wire brushing. I will apply a rust converter, and then 2 coats of Hammerite.

I have KURUST it's a well proven rust converter, and will treat all of the metal with this before painting

Would need to be a huge barrel ..... the ramps are over 1m long and as per the video they need to be suspended not sitting on the bottom. I'll go with neutralising the rust

Not according to Hammerite web site .. only any loose rust, they do claim & lable the product as 'Direct to Rust'

Too big, so just looking for the optimum way to treat. I had a set of trailer wheel sandblasted & galvanised .... which worked well, but too expensive for a £20 set of car ramps.. I have wire-brushed with power tools so loose rust off ... I have decided to get a bottle of Rust Converter...

Even though it says to use 'direct to rust' you think using a primer first is better.?