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An update for anyone else who comes across a similar problem, the plasterer just fixed a wire mesh to the brickwork and rendered it. A few weeks later fine cracks formed in the same position, but they haven't opened up, so fingers crossed it is only surface cracking in the plaster.

I do usually DIY when I can, and I suppose I could just patch it up with mortar and mesh, but as you suggested in your first post, I think the proper repair would be to chop out the cracked bricks and tie new ones across. My concern is that with it being a load bearing wall that if I start...

It does look like it. I wonder now, after reading the feedback, if way back there was a bit of settlement and a section of wall was replaced, but not very well. It wouldn't have been a chimney as that is on the opposite side of the room, if it was a bricked up door then all the neighbours houses...

Thanks Woody, I'll get some quotes in. Any ideas on what I should expect as a ballpark figure to do the job?

There has been a crack in the render in the living room for the last 4 years, since I moved in. I've finally got around to renovating that room and just taken down the render and plaster and found a crack approximately 1.2m long as shown in the pictures. It's a 1930's terraced house. It seems...

crack in bricks of 1930s house

There's nowhere in the bathroom that I can place the switch that is outside of the zones. This switch is suitable for zone 2 in a bathroom http://www.electronicsarena.co.uk/companies/altima-led-lighting-ltd/products/selva-bathroom-switch-double-plate-2-button-dimmer.

The switch has already purchased. The questions have been genuine, and a solution found. I have not been deliberately awkward and I find your post offensive. I've had to explain myself multiple times because people don't read the full thread, but I don't mind doing that.

Agreed. If I chose the 60 seconds overrun set up then the fan would just be used in a different way, finish using the bathroom, turn fan on, go and do other stuff for ten minutes then come back and turn it off. I wouldn't rely on one minute being enough to clear a room of steam. It's not an...

ermmm... seems like a trick question.. I give up :D

Yes, thanks, I'd come to the same conclusion. I have two options as I see it: 1) Get a fan with the shortest overrun possible, I've seen 1 minute ones, so not long to wait. 2) Fit a small indicator light on the same circuit (I think I'll do that in the ceiling above the fan or above the switch)...

What for you or for me? For all the contributors too I imagine! :LOL: Yeah, but you know, belt and braces keep my trousers up much more safely :D

Thanks flameport, I would have gone with the inline fan option, but there is an existing 240V fan in place in the wall and it's much easier just to replace that. Considering the location of the fan an IPX7 (SELV) fan rather than an IPX4 (currently) seems worth the extra cash. I think I've made...

Ohh, I see, thanks.. That makes me wonder if the 12 controller that switches to 240V would be safe to be left on continuously. It would also negate the reason to even have a switch. The final problem would be if the room needed extraction for a reason other than humidity, like toilet smells...

I think my current best options so far are: 1) Have a fan that does not have a humidistat, then it won't come on automatically for any reason, only when the wall button is pressed, no ambiguity as to why it is on. 2) Have a fan with humidistat and have an additional LED down light fitted that...

My requirement is for the fan to be switched on and off at the wall switch, like with a pull cord, but at the wall switch. But the switch only controls the fan, not the lights, the lights are turned on by another button. My concern/confusion is that the fan I want to get has a humidistat, so if...

It's actually not just a dimmer switch, it's an on/off switch, the requirement is a fan operated as needed like a pull cord operated one, but by a wall switch instead. There is an isolator switch but it's way above the door and out of reach of the wife, so she cannot switch it off as needed...

Yeah I googled that too, hehe, doesn't look the same at all. Dunno, why Altima call them that.