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So I've had a play around this morning. With all trvs and lockshields fully open it seems to run for longer,but still quite a big difference between flow and return temps when the boiler cuts out. I turned the temp down to 70⁰c, and balanced the system by opening all the upstairs lockshields by...

That's what I though, I'll have another play around tomorrow. Could be a dodgy switch, which could mean it's actually only running at the first speed setting? But it is running when it should be.

It's set to maximum speed (3rd speed setting) and always has been as far as I'm aware. Just out of interest I tried turning it down the the second setting and it just goes off completely, not sure if that should be happening.

I could probably approximate most radiators to be an average of 600x600mm single panel with two much larger double panel radiators in the kitchen and living room. The pump always seems to be running when the boiler fires up so in theory the heated water should be drawn away - whether or not this...

Would you expect the return temp to be similar to the flow temp at the point the boiler turns off?

I'll try turning it down tomorrow and see if that has any effect. The maximum temp it can be set to is 85 by the way. Fair point about the thermostat, I will set it to the temperature I want, to be honest now I think about it there's no point at all turning it to 30 as it's just a standard non...

Sometimes forcing the hot water to come on (by turning its thermostat to max temporarily) can actually sometimes make the boiler run for a bit longer but generally has little effect, so could easily be coincidence to be honest. It's pretty random and there's 3 main cycle patterns I've noticed...

The water comes out clear when I bleed the radiators and the system was apparently powerflushed when the boiler was installed a couple of years back. It is a 22mm pipe up to the header tank, and it does have water in it. Upstairs radiators all get hot (other than the ones with their TRVs turned...

Just to try to explain whats in the pic, the two pipes on the right going upwards with the valve are to flow and return for the megaflo. The boiler flow comes from the left insulated pipe into the pump and goes out to the right. The magnetic filter is installed on the megaflo return. You can...

Hi all, hoping someone can help me! I've got an Atag IR24 system (heat only) boiler installed a couple of years ago and I'm having a problem with it short cycling. I'll try to describe my heating system as best as possible: it comprises of 13 radiators of various sizes most of which have trvs...

The dishes are usually dry after the cycle unless they’re plastic, and the new dishwasher actually has more insulation than the old one, and is the exact same size

Hi I’ve just replaced my old Bosch dishwasher with a new Bosch (SMV46GX00G). It washes very well and dries the dishes reasonably well, however the inside walls of the machine are always covered in condensation after the cycle, as the photos show. I’ve been using the auto 45-65°C cycle, and...

Yes concrete underneath then the insulation boards on top with a damp proof membrane I think and then the chipboard just floating on it

I’ve cut out the rotten chipboard, but it was just laid on insulation board, no joists or anything! Surely that can’t be right?

Definitely chipboard, looks like planks of timber due to the solid wood floor that was laid on it. The new solid wood flooring will run in the opposite direction to the existing one (along the length or the room instead of the width) , so screws at the edges won’t work unfortunately. So would...

These are pictures of the chipboard which is rotten and the existing floor.

Hi I’m replacing my floor in my downstairs toilet as the existing solid wood flooring was bowed and ruined due to a water leak some time ago. I’ve pulled up the existing solid wood boards and the chip board subfloor underneath is covered in mould, although it is dry now. My plan is to cut out...

I have had a look inside the light to see if the hole can be enlarged, but there is lots of metal moulding on the inside, and the gu10 lampholder is in the way of making a bigger hole, or even a new hole. Also unfortunately the glands can’t be screwed together directly.

In this case there was a fence post 60cm away, so I decided to use that, although I like your idea of using post stumps. That would have been hard for me though because the spike light is in the middle of some garden bushes, and I didn’t fancy crawling around in there! I could swap the metal...

I was thinking of using this at the light end of the conduit.