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Just to confirm, the waste coming through the floor is already below the level of pan spigot. I think it's the sharpness of bend that the flexi has to take to get in it, which bows it upwards. pan spigot center from finished floor: 175mm top of grey waste from finished floor: 40mm

I did look at those to begin with, but the angle is probably a bit too wide; the pan connector would probably have to go uphill to then angle down in to it. The Marley one I showed above is really tight angle and would be tight to the floor.

Actually, does that apply to both solvent and pushfit sockets?

Ok great. Thanks for all your help everyone. PS: If I can find a shallow offset bend like the Marley one that has spigot/plain end instead of the pushfit would that be the preferred option?

Could the outlet end of a pan connector fit directly (and properly) in to a socket end or would I need another stub of pipe? If you look at Marley product SNE405, it's almost the perfect one - slight angle, the picture shows the solvent end as 'bottom' and the 'depth' looks really short though...

So I guess the fundamentals are: Is 1.25-1.5" exposed straight/plain end enough purchase to have safe seal of socket end (whether solvent or push-fit) Will having the socket end be the outlet end provide a safe seal (whether solvent or push-fit). I'd imagine the seal in push-fit the wrong way...

Sorry, I meant the 3-4" stub was overall length, with only 1.25-1.5" of it exposed outside the socket. Even if I could, it would make the pan connector go upwards before going down. The one I linked to a couple posts ago has a tight bend so would stay lower than the pan spigot.

Just wondering... the current pan connector is 3 1/2" outlet end. Can you get 4" female to 3 1/2" male couplers? I could then put the right way round elbow into it.

As above, that piece is solvent! I found this, but again I'd need the socket bit facing downwards, not upwards. Is this even an issue with solvent (or push fit), as the existing double socket elbow will be the same, as is my t-piece on the outside. There's also a double socket straight coupler...

Not push-fit, it's solvent. It's a short length (maybe 3-4") that goes into a 90 double socket elbow which the other end then runs off to the stack. The pan connector then connects in to this short piece, which can't be removed.

Is Multikwik stuff any good? This one extends to 550mm. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MULTIKWIK-MKC2-MULTICLICK-FLEXIBLE-STRAIGHT-WC-TOILET-PAN-CONNECTOR-/290776949949

PS: The fittings like I linked above... are they bi-directional? Does it matter that the (downward facing) connection goes over its connecting piece, rather than inside it?

Yes, there. The problem with the McAlpine BTW flexi connector is that it's even shorter than the one I have already. So I was looking to reduce the distance by elbowing out the floor, then pan connector straight in to the elbow. I think that means I need socket-style one end (to go in to the...

I get that. But as above if adding just a single extra part will save me/the next people some aggro in the future for not a lot of money and effort, seems silly not to! If it involved lots of parts and effort fair enough!

Is the 1.25" exposed part of existing pipe enough purchase to add a 90 elbow, whether push fit or cement? If so that would literally be all I need. Ideally without having to add straight pipe to the pan connector side first! Is it the 'socket' type I'm after...

That's what I'm saying. If I could use the flex in compressed mode instead of at its limit, I would have play without having to disconnect either from the pan or the waste.

Is the tension not an issue then? Would it not still be better to relieve it? And at least give me some movement in the toilet in the future without always having to replace the connector!

Yeah - 6 years ago almost to the day. It started very recently when I had to replace the concealed cistern, which required moving the toilet out a bit, which in turn meant re-seating the pan connector.

If I reverse the direction, you mean: elbow to the right off the existing pipe coming out of the floor > straight pipe > elbow towards the pan > straight pipe > straight pan connector Is 1.25" on the existing straight pipe enough to get a decent connection?