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Thanks for the replies I have repointed the outside of the wall so shall keep an eye on that. I did check one drain and all seems normal but I think I have a couple of others I could check. Hoping this is just a extreme weather thing although the crack doesnt look new.

I'll do some more digging so I can at least discount the roots as being an issue. We have laminate floors and I cant see any movement in them near the crack on the inside. I guess I could take the flooring up too see but first I'll dig more outside to see if it throws any light on the matter.

It was like that when we bought the house. I need to repoint as they've not used any sharp sand in the mortar mix so it sticks out like a sore thumb. Do you mean dig down to the bottom of the slab? I can already see the top of the slab Thanks

Well the willow tree is coming down on Wednesday so that's one possible cause out the way As this has happened to nextdoors house this summer they have sought expert advice. I could probably "steal" that advice to save me a few quid. But it seems its just caused by heat in their case probably...

Ok got the spade out... didnt get too far in but it tells me what I need to know.... Pic attached... So if i need to underpin. How far underneath and into existing slab do i need to dig too? Thanks

Yes there is a crack on the inside wall that matches the location of the outside wall. The house is on clay soil. Has a willow tree about 20metres away. All these factors could play a part. I best get my spade out.... Thanks for the reply

Hi all, Weve just bought a new house and its come with a few cracks. Seems to have got slightly worse in this dry weather. Our neighbour's with a similar property (bungalow) have had this issue also this summer but lived there many years before with no issues. I was going to have a dig down and...

Thought I'd just share another pic of the door. With that design surely it lends itself to being an exterior door? I think it came from wickes originally judging by the design. I got it off Ebay for 23quid and have had almost 3yrs use out of it so not too bad

Thanks for the replies. I think I'm going to have to get a new door (y)

Thanks for the replies. It's a pine door I think. Probably 38mm wide at most. I wondered whether I could take a hot iron to it then brush it with rot hardener then repaint. I've tried hair drying it also on both sides but no difference.

Hi all, I have a front door that seems to have absorbed some water and swelled around the bottom of the top two panels. Anyone know a way of fixing or at least making it slightly better. I've attached some pics... Thanks for looking

Thanks for the replies. I do use it off the stand. The mix is strong as it's mixed dry and to the ratio needed. It's just when I add water it slumps out the mixer and kind of drip feeds the slab. I used 7 bags of cement in the 2.4m by 2.4m slab and just a little over 1 bulk bag of 850kg ballast...

Hi all, I am working on a few interconnecting slabs presently all 2.4m by 2.4m and doing one every other day. I have found it easiest if I just load the mixer dry and then add the water until it overflows from the mixer into the concrete form. I never actually tilt/pour/lift the mixer once. It...

Thanks for the replies. This building will have some weight to it so shouldnt float out the ground. Ive done a similar subterranean building previously (just 1 metre deep not 2-2.5m deep) and thats all ok around 8years later. I have a drain nearby so was thinking of hooking a pipe from the...

I think i've exhausted the PD rights of the property above ground :D It would just be built for fun, mainly because I enjoy the challenge

Most cost effective would be poundshop fake hammerite I guess

Hi all, I'm thinking of building a small bunker as a man cave maybe 6 x 3m at most. I was going to use butyl liner and tanking slurry to stop the water ingress but im not sure which type of block to go for. A) 4inch concrete blocks laid on their side B) 9 inch hollows filled and rebarred into...

Thanks for the replies fellas, ive decided to do a plywood kitchen worktop with tiles on top to accomodate an odd sized corner sink. I did try bracing and gluing 3 gravel boards to each other a couple of years ago for a man cave bar. Sure enough there are small gaps now between the joins on the...

Thanks for the replies guys, ive decided to shelve the stave worktop idea and go with plywood with tiles on top. I would just buy a wickes worktop and be done with it but Ive bought a flash kitchen corner sink off ebay and need to have the worktop coming out an extra 5cms on one of the inside...

Thanks for the reply foxhole. I do have the tools to buy the staves but wondered if they can be bought of the shelf. All I find from a google is old beer barrel staves. Also im guessing they dont need to be beech but can be hardwood timber with a beech stain?