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+1 - they are the old standard JG fittings, they have exactly the same end as the current stop ends, tap/valve ends and flexi pipes etc, there is no nut that unscrews, like the modern speedfit twist and lock fittings. There isn't a locking collet in there either, it would be between the white...

They are old JG pushfit and that's exactly how you release them. Push in the white collar, the trouble is those one tend to become very stubborn after they've been in for a long time and the teeth and dug in and become reluctant to release. Get a pair of pliers that have the curved part in the...

Not sure why he said that. All boiler's should be fed by a common mains supply. I would suspect that the fused switched unit beside the timer feeds power to the timer and that should also feed power the boiler, through that switch on the wall beside the boiler. Then there should be a separate...

Are both manifolds serviced by the same Blending valve and pump assembly? Normally there would be one for each. You will need to isolate the manifold and valve/pump assembly from the CH system and depressurise the UFH before it can all be disconnected.

I set a shower tray into the floor not so long ago so with the tiles and ditra mat and EUFH then the tray is now level with the floor tile. Looking at your joists again though, they look like I joists, If so then that wouldn't work as batons would need to be added to the side of the joists...

Wow - yup, seems they created quite a few issues over time with water ingress. Do you want the tray sitting on top of the floor level or have you considered dropping the tray in so it ends up level with the floor?

Get a chimney specialist in to survey and recommend a suitable approach to the chimney, they can be areas for damp accumulation or debris depending on it's condition. If it had been used for solid fuel previously and then a gas fire fitted then it should have already been swept clean as part...

If it did it once then it can do it again and/or fail completely - your choice to risk it or not. Trouble is if it's working just now then it may not be apparent what is actually causing the issue when under test.

Do you mean you aren't getting any flow into the Cold Water cistern (CWSC) in the attic or a toilet cistern? Is it just a trickle?

Ah ok - yep ... fair enough, didn't think about that - of course, direct correlation

Don't meant to disagree but ..... The 145's differential (delta) pressure scale is in mbar/bar, not M head

No - numbers would usually equate to pressure in Mbar/bar - that being the pressure against the valve needed for it to start to open, s a lower number means less pressure needed to open the valve. That noise is more indicative of a fouled valve, may need removed and cleaned or replaced. The...

Get the unvented serviced properly by a qualified engineer. Unvented cylinders are not a DIY appliance. The ones with the internal bubble are the only (edit) ones that can have that restored by the client but nothing else on the unit. Anything else should be serviced by someone qualified. These...

Yea +2 - why don't you use a piece of ply to build the wood out till it's level. That's the process I follow when coming across dot 'n' dabbed board over brick. When putting a really large rad on a wall like that I cut out the plasterboard and fill the gap with wood secured to the wall behind...

The rust needs treated first before anything. it needs a wire brush to remove as much as possible the use a rust converter before anything else to reduce the chance of it returning.

A little silicone grease and pop one of these in

+1 - If it's fitted into that boss properly I would be expecting to have to cut it too and then use a straight coupler to remake.

You would use a 35mm Forstner drill bit with depth stop, you can get kits/jigs online easily enough.

The hinges etc are usually set up for standard doors and spacing/depths with some wiggle room. The trouble starts when fitting to a bespoke or altered/non standard set of units

Yeah - the bath waste hole should be a standard and would normally accept a standard 11/2" bath waste with a ~70mm wide top flange. Go easy with the bath enamel and rusted area as the worst thing would be to clean it all prior to touching up and then create holes where the rust was, though in...