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+1

^^^ yes

1) Modern boilers do run cooler, you won't have a cast iron lump of heat exchanger kettling away on the wall. 2) You could frame out the airing cupboard wall, incorporating a celotex layer. You'd need to leave studwork at the right height for the boiler hanging bracket or face the wall with...

"Why are there no old school heating engineers?" We exist, don't advertise much, and are are choosy about the jobs (and customers) we take on. And once, of course, we were overconfident no-nothings derided by our more experienced elders.

There are indeed excellent roofers out there. I'm lucky enough to know one.

Pragmatic and sensible approach.

Hive replaces programmer and room thermostat. More detail of your current setup required.

Then the cylinder stat is faulty or miswired, more likely the the latter. Or set too high.

Phew!

R29 ?? Got a GC number?

Yes, absolutely. An alternative would be something like https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-straight-service-valve-15mm-x-1-2-/58008?tc=BC8 (other brands available) discarding the chromed nut and olive and reusing the existing.

https://www.toolstation.com/fernco-plumbqwik-straight-coupling-black/p37007 is an option

With Loctite 55 you'll be fine. LSX on top overkill IMO, but would not harm.

Try a Fluidmaster side-entry fill valve instead of a ballcock.

In my distant, carefree, and overconfident yoof I once connected 240V to the low voltage terminals on an early Vaillant. Cost me half the profit on the job to rectify. You can't buy experience - or perhaps here I did.

Forum rules are no posts that might encourage DIY gas work.

Option 1 I've repaired worse than that. As mechanical damage goes that's a bit meh - try harder next time! :)

"Designer" = made to look pretty, but not to work.

Also: The Tado diagram posted applies to where the pump live is fed from the boiler ("pump run-on"). This cannot be the case here, rather it would be an old-style Y-plan. " The pump is in the airing cupboard with the wiring centre. If I could do this, that would make life a lot easier."...

https://www.electricautomationnetwork.com/PDF/ENGLISH/FINDER/CATEN_13Series.pdf I read this as : 240V SwL from Tado HTG NO "call for heat" closes contacts 13 (in) and 14 (out to load), in your case 13 would be permanent live. HTH Disclaimer: I'm also not a qualified electrician.