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You certainly don'r need to physically build in 2 stages, just get the permissions straight which is probably safer in 2 bites as I suggested earlier. Just for the record whose idea was the bigger dormer and at what stage did the idea come up. Do you have any building reg drawings. Your...

They aren't normal hinges with that crank in them: surely normal ones would do the job the OP wants

I'd say you were right: if an't broke..... But SWMBO is always right (assuming they're all like mine!)

I used a blowlamp and a stiff bristle brush on mine

I look at the depth of those things and wonder if a couple of steels and normal timbers wouldn't be a better option

Blade not sharp and trying to take too big a cut would be my thought.

If you get a drill with a load of torque you've still got to hang on to it. You may yet be better strappng the tree rather than this somewhat unusual approach. Or even dare one suggestt that if the state of the tree is worrying, then it may be time to remove it for safety.

Your architct hasn't helped you much has he? A couple of principles: 1. Generally speaking planners don't like dormers 2. Any work shown on a Planning Application can be refused even if it is of itself PD. I have had this done to be and in fairness the planner did warn me what was likely to...

Always worth checking the joints for damage/debris immediately before you put them together: very small bits of trapped material can stop the joint closing properly and the boards sitting down flat.

All sorts of adjustments get made below ground out of site: bricks on edge, frogs knocked off. thicker beds, thinner beds. 40mm could be taken out on the first course then you've a couple of courses to do final tweaking, As Woody says do not suggest those numbers of yours to a brickie: they...

Yes 150 min, wouldn't hurt to be more

Exactly the same at my lad's place in E7.

Rafts are just what the say on the tin: they can move as the soil m/c alters. The trick is to make them strong enough not to break their back so the structure doesn't suffer differential movement. This is in direct contrast to strip or piled foundations where we strive to get down to ground...

You don't say how big the room is, but I've seen normal 2 storey brick built houses founded on a 200 raft with thickened edges (still a raft!), so structurally should be fine. I'd be more concerned about water ingress: I assume you're dropping the floor to keep overall height within PD limits...

It may well have live cables in at as sometimes sparkies will just pull in rew cables in. Found this at both son's place and our new abode. At son's it was thin wall stuff and I cut it with a normal pipe slice but in our place it's at least 2mm wall thickness and the pipe slice won't fit so out...

Old electrical conduit without the ag of cutting threads. Found this in my son's place.

Nothing to stop you making a simple jig and using a hand saw if you really want to be cheap/

What does new roof mean? Did it pond before and did you ask to have the levels adjusted or just bang a new membrane down?

There's nothing I can see in that pcicture shouting replace me: no sagging, no broken tiles , no eroded tiles, no tiles sitting wrong, I'd try repair but £7k does sound a lot.

Careful measurement and cutting is all you need. If you have a lot to do then think about making a simple jig