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Do you have a consumer unit (aka fuse box) in the garage? If so you can fit one of these: https://www.jsgsolutions.co.uk/products/sdm120db?variant=42956470649088&currency=GBP If not this is a good option...

Nukes don't provide base load. They are designed to be turned on and left on for 12-18 months at 100%. They are designed to be occasionally throttled down to 40% temporarily for on-load refuelling for AGR or islanding (loss of grid) for PWR but they don't like that for long as you get xenon...

I have started getting water hammer in the cold system. We've isolated the banging to a general area but can't find the specific location - it may be in a stud wall. I've decided to try and fit an arrestor. There seem to be two types - mechanical ones like sioux that use an air-sprung piston...

I use Gripits Four brown ones are fine for a radiator. You'll need the undercut tool. https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/collections/gripit-plasterboard-fixing

Now you have a working external stopcock you can fix the internal one at your leisure. I had the same problem and it turned out that the washer had disintegrated. Turn off the outside stopcock. Remove the guts of the internal stopcock using a spanner and check the washer. Grease everything with...

Thermaskirt? https://www.discreteheat.com/thermaskirt/products-and-information/what-is-thermaskirt.aspx

Any idea of the difference between the following Johnstone's vinyl matt paint please? Cleanable Durable Ultralast Thanks

Hi I have bungalow and think the best place to fit a camera is part way up the roof. I think they are Marley Ludlow or Redland 49. What's the best way to do this? I was thinking of: 1. Pushing up a couple of tiles to get to a batten. 2. Screwing a 20mm x 2mm aly strip to go down under the tile...

You can get a polymer sand which sets up like glue. Might be worth a try?

Technically, they need to be fixed as @JohnW2 said, but I've seen similar by professional electricians behind kitchens. I'd leave them.

You mix the hot with the cold in the bath?

The other option would be to turn up the temperature so you can use less hot and more cold. I think most immersions can go up to 80 degrees?

Like @robinbanks says I would run a bead of adhesive foam along the packed stud and then screw the board as usual.

How about a 100x65 PCC lintel vertically into the space with a 100x50 oak beam in front? Or a 100 X 60 box section: https://shop.buyabeam.com/suppliers/baker-steel-trading/rectangular-box-section/Rectangular-Box-Section-S235/products/100-x-60-x-6-rhs

If you have room you can use foam to glue on 25mm insulation and then 9.5mm plasterboard.

Could you not buy some insulated spade crimps and crimp them directly to the mains cable? https://images.app.goo.gl/VJ8mRTiDGBHp1ZrG6

Gary What tools do you have? My suspicion is that since you're asking you probably don't have the right ones (eg a mahoosive bandsaw or radial arm saw). You can use a circular saw to cut 100mm from the front of the worktop but as big all says it'll be too thick as a normal upstand is 12mm ish...

I would build a base using a sheet of 25mm WBP ply screwed into 3" fence posts laid flat. If you want to go the hardcore /concrete route then minimum 100mm concrete. Ram down the hardcore with a sledgehammer. The concrete will stay on top.

If the joints don't line up with joists then you need to either attach noggins behind or remove the boards and trim. They must have wood behind or they'll crack.

Medium oak possibly?