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A copper channel can be annealed with a blow lamp allowing it to be formed to a shape before it eventually work hardens.

Even meter readers get these wrong.

Single screw to loosen underneath and the controller then just lifts away and you can replace it with a Drayton LP722 or similar that uses the same back plate.

Are the little supply valves on the hot and cold connections to the controller fully open?

Had a rummage through my archives and found an assembly instruction for boxes Pt.Nos. EBE-60R-SW and EBE-120R-SW which were installed in the UK but guess they are now discontinued. Might be worth searching on line for second hand.

A German company used to make a box specially designed to fit in the corner of a bathroom cabinet. Elektra I think they are called.

Glad it all worked out for you.

Well good luck with the boiler. Truth is that those old oil furnaces last for ever. Old or modern they cost much the same to run despite what people trying to flog you a replacement might tell you and spares are cheap and available.

Those pesky mosquitos will get in however close fitting the lid is, You can put a few drips of cooking oil in the butt to deter them but not if you are going to use it to top up a pond.

In my experience these diverter kits block up very quickly and dump most of the water down the drain anyway. What you could do is leave the drain pipe into tank one as per your pic and use a linking kit as suggested above. You will also need to provide an overflow to the drain from tank 1 the...

Nothing wrong with basic. Less to go wrong and if properly designed and installed will likely work just as well as any modern system thats rammed full of gizmos.

Early heating systems often used to run on the boiler stat only with no room or HW tank stat. Sometimes they would have what was called a cytrol valve on the supply to the hot tank to regulate the HW temp but they didnt work that well.

So are you saying you have oil at the burner but it's still not firing up?

In my experience mice don't normally set out to eat cables. What happens is that they establish runs through the inter floor space and if they find an obstruction then they chew through it to clear the way. Best to set snap traps where you can plus find out where they are entering and seal that up.

You could try taking the radiator outside and flushing it out with a hose pipe.

You could try taking the radiators back off. Stick buckets under the wheelheads and lockshields and crack them open one at a time to check check for a goodly flow.

Could be air entering the oil feed.

Back in the day we didn't worry too much about ventilation for fossil fuel burners because there was always enough air entering the house around windows and doors etc. These days with hermetically sealed homes a permanent vent is an absolute must for any non room sealed appliance.

The only time I have seen two pumps is where there was a tee off the primary circuit that fed distant radiators and towel rails.

I don't believe you can legally connect a boost pump to a rising main. As I understand it you would need to install a water tank in the attic to create a break between your water system and the rising main in order to prevent backflow. You then connect the boost pump to the outlet from the tank.