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It doesn't always have to, if the setting out permits it then a smaller stone on each end is fine too - subject to the copings on the end not being adequate. But that's irrelevant here in anycase.

Ahh I see now, looking on my phone I thought we were looking at the underside of the slates, jeez yes he needs to unravel it and make it right.

Without knowing the length of the run and size of the stones your only other choice in that situation (apart from having a 200 slither at one end) would be to cut every coping stone down a bit. Got a photo?

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I think we can certainly draw some conclusions from these threads.

To be fair the OP does seem quite sure of himself, unlike some others.

I do like winding you up. Perhaps you should place the OP on ignore. The evidence is very clear.

The underlay is over the top, his terminology is incorrect.

For someone who claims to have no interest you sure are invested Mottie.

Think your terminology is wrong there, underlay is the roof membrane, which is correctly laid over the top of the eaves tray. What is lacking is the tilting fillet, the solid timber wedge shape bit of timber that would sit under the eaves tray/membrane and prevent this sag. Obviously the battens...

Well he's partially right that many older roofs do not have an underlay and also do not leak. However there ought to be a continuous tilting fillet to prevent the sag you're seeing. You say he's fitted the underlay beneath the eaves tray but we can see the underlay on top?

Repost in the Building section, this section is more shelves, doors & hinges etc.

They can't stop reading and replying, they're obsessed with trolling you even when they have nothing useful to add. Especially Mottie.

Splice some timber or patch it up as you wish if you like but the panels are nearing the end of their life.

The rule of thumb for a mass retaining wall is that the depth of the base needs to be about 1/3 of the height so at the base the thickness ought to be something like three layers of block - 675mm wide. A beast like that really needs designing.

@Jack4 yes your last sketch proposal is better, at least an acceptable proposal assuming the levels work! Who is submitting the Build Over/Near Agreement to the Water Company? You or your architect?If you look on your water company's website you should be able to find all the criteria you need...

Answer the question.

Got you, you just want to troll too.

Suggested by who? You still have a connection under the building, can you not shift that so it's outside of the extension?