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Oh I see. 10mm² it is. Oh yes,for me CU to the isolator is the easy bit. I guess injust get concerned when it involves a wet area and electricity

Also would it be safe to just swap the cable for a 16mm² for future proofing when this shower dies to upgrade to a 10.5kw?

I assume that reads from "2 x 6 + 2.5 PX 42" 2 x = 2 core 6 = 6mm² + 2.5 = 2.5mm cables in the cores? Given its a 9.5kw and assuming under rated cable, are we still suggesting going with a 10mm cable, a 45A MCB and potentially isolated upgrade to 45A (if not already)? Having opened the shower...

This is what is embossed on the cable: BASEC 078 BS6004 6242 YH 2 x 6 + 2.5 PX 42

P.s. thank you all for the help and information this far

The cable is in ducting, so I can double check that. The total length is close enough to about 4m.

It was installed around 5 years ago by a electrician. Once I confirm the actual kW rating, what would I need for a 9.5?

No, it was like for like.

That's a very good question That's a very good question. I had the shower unit replaced some years ago. I THink it was a 9.5kw. I was just thinking, the run from the CU to the trip switch is only a few meters. Would it be worth replacing that for a 16mm for future proofing. The trip switch is...

B32

I'll get the numbers shortly. When I put my ear to the box it was the mcb for the shower that was making the noise.

Does this mean I need to get a higher amp MCB for it? I have only opened the consumer unit once to replace one of the other MCB's. Is it legal for me to replace or do i need to get a qualified electrician to do it?

Oh my bad. It's the MCB that trips then.

Maybe I am being confused (not an electrician). It is one of these (not my actual box)

I do. I will open it and check the isolator. Should I just replace it? Is there any way to tell if there is wear / damage or test it,outside of a visual inspection ?

Hi all. I have seen similar topics on the forum, but not the same as my experiences. I have what I think is a Mira Go 8.5kw shower (maybe it's a 9). It seems to run fine for about 5 to 10 mins, then trips the RCD. When you switch it back on, ots runs for another 3 or so mins then trips. When...

Plan was to silicon the loose tiles. Fill tub with cold water. Silicon. Empty Then batten. .specifically in that order lol

It's the long back edge that's the only problem, only towards the front of the bath. I did consider putting a batten up then jamming some up rights to prop it up. Might give it a shot tomorrow. Only problem is reaching those bits

Please don't say that. Sounds like a right faff. Do you think if I tightened the feet up that may help? I did notice the foot closest to the camera at the drain seemed loose. So raised that and tightened it up. Would shortening the leg by placing a piece of wood under each leg help?