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It's for the outside light. Whoever installed it, put the back box on the blocks and then removed some mortar and pushed in the cable below the surface, mortared over the top, then to the doorframe and upwards, wedged in, mortared over again and hidden. If you look at the back box from the...

I may just do that. I am going to have a look and see what the damage is tomorrow, and make it safe, and go from there.

Indeed mate, it jolted me backwards and that made me drop the knife. Glad it didn't stick in my foot. I will be more careful in future.

I've got a Bosch one, but this wall has got gas pipes and all the electrics for the house, so lots of false positives, as well as positives. The wire was wedged between the door frame and brickwork, so pretty much invisible until I cut into it. Just didn't spot it. Maybe better specs would do...

It was all going so well! :ROFLMAO: I've removed the old plaster in my hallway back to the brick in places, and filled all round the edges with foam, mortared the old brickwork and I was just trimming the excess foam off and bzzzzzzt, right up my arm. I feel OK, index finger is a bit hot, and...

It's about 15mm off (y) There's no plasterboard here at all mate. The white painted bit is really old 2 part plaster and under that is a cement render of some kind, and is rock hard. 1950s build. The blocks underneath are pretty crumbly cinderblock, so bashing off back to the blocks is not easy...

Thanks mate, there's another long piece of timber, not in the photo that screws to the timber on the left in the photo and sits flush (ish) with the wall to accommodate the new board. Cheers for the info.

I've boxed in some pipes and there's a small external corner that I have built out with a wooden frame, and then it meets the old existing corner. I will be fixing to the wooden frame, but about 20cm x 7ft of the new board will be over an old, 2 part plaster/ and mortar wall. I will prime the...

Thanks mate (y) Yeah I had the problem with the tape bump showing last time and I had to feather it out 40cm before it looked alright. This time though, all the tapes will be close to an upright external corner, which had been skimmed a couple of times, so the corner is less than 90, so I will...

I've done a load of boxing in of pipes in my hallway and it all needs jointing and taping. It's not large areas, but some of the joints are 2.4m long and maybe 15cm wide, but mostly smaller bits. I've already got the paper tape, and I have got a 5kg bag of Toupret interior filler, would there be...

Thanks for the suggestions. I have ground down an old spanner and that did the trick. Had to bash off some plaster as well, but it's being boarded over, so it's not a problem. Cheers (y)

Does anyone know of a spanner/tool for getting in really tight spaces where a compression fitting is in between a wall and another pipe? There only looks to be about 6mm ish, either side, so whatever it is, needs to have really narrow, pointy jaws. I have tried a 24mm split ring spanner, but it...

Thanks. Yes, there is a rainwater drain that runs from front to back, I'm not sure exactly where it is, but I think it's close to the side wall of the house, looking at the two grids that it joins. Not sure how deep. No manholes.

I'm looking to build a lean to shed/workshop on the side of my house. It'll be slightly narrower than a single garage, and will be a shed/workshop and storage area. I was going to build it using the same methods as a garden room, fully insulated all round, wood construction and a couple of rows...

I have fitted a new MDF MR, pre primed window sill. The existing white primer had taken a battering during the install, and there were some bare MDF ends that I had shaped. I used a couple of generous coats of Zinsser BIN (which was a right ball ache to apply) filled in-between coats with...

Dug out the bin primer and did one end where I'd shaped it and it only raised the fibres a little bit, they sanded back nicely, so gave it a full coat, applied with a roller and laid (layed?) off with a 3" soft brush. The only issue I encountered was that, because it's a long sill, about 4m in...

Thanks, the only reason that we are going for a water based finish, is so it doesn't go yellow after a few months. I believe that the scuff x is pretty tough for this kind of thing? What other kinds of paints are there for this application, that are pretty hard wearing and can be painted on with...

Thanks. I have had the same thing happen, which is why I'm asking here. I was thinking zinsser bin, but wasn't sure if it was ok with Scuff x? I know Rustin's do an MDF sealer that is water based that seems to get good reviews, but I also saw that some people were forever re-coating and then...

Morning all, I have a large MDF window sill that needs painting. I'm going to try the Scuff X as it is quite a high traffic area in a busy house. The MDF is primed, but there are areas of it that are bare MDF and have been sanded to shape and there are lots of scrapes and dirty marks from...

Thanks, the cavity is fully insulated and I closed the top and any gaps with foam and then mortared over the top and there's room inside for the air to circulate. There wasn't room to add any more height, as I have to take into account the shutters going back in. The ceiling was removed...