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It’s much smaller, just over 1/2” diameter.

No problems, direct hot water cylinder.

Not sure where it came from. No details on the box or on the very brief instructions and then it didn’t cover the fitting of the tap tails.

Just cut one but I'm concerned about whether it would tighten down enough to not allow the fitting to come loose. I forgot to say I did try some PTFE tape but I couldn't get it to stay on the fitting long enough to get to the tap tail. Just realised I was using gas tape which is much thicker so...

My daughter has bought one of these extending nozzle kitchen tap. Two tails are a challenge when cramped under the sink but add a third one!!! The tap came with a plastic fitting to screw into the third tail out of the bottom of the tap. The hose going to the extending nozzle has O rings and...

It fitted down pretty flat but I did decide to put a wipe of silicone on the corners.

Would have loved to have tried it but no local suppliers and the large tube was greatly more than I needed. Really wanted the smaller tube.

The sink I'm fitting has a rolled edge and a foam gasket behind. Will this be enough to seal or should I add a bead of silicon? On other sinks I've fitted they have flat edges so no gasket and when I've dry fitted there is usually gaps especially when the fixings are applied. Why do they only...

All done. Used the Colorfill, made up suitable wedges to hold the joint tight in the right position and then tightened up the dogbones. The Colorfill went off very quickly and was even a sod to clean off the joint. I would not recommend it.

I have a tricky worktop corner joint to assemble. It's an L shaped worktop with walls at each end so I have very little room to get the adhesive on. Then it's carefully lowering the section into place, getting it all line up and level and then do up the dogbones. They're not easy to get at...

I'm planning on building a single brick wide wall between us and the neighbour between our driveways. The wall will be roughly 10 metres long and about 9 courses high with a soldier course on the top. There will be a 2 x brick square pillars at each end about 20 courses high. How many support...

So no one has used Ezarc blades then?

Yes, I always use my Dewalt on the lowest speed setting. Think I might try some Saxton blades. Has anyone used their circular saws and jigsaw blades?

Not usually, but I did try the SMART japanese tooth blade which did cut quicker initially but again went blunt but lasted slightly longer than branded blades. I'm careful not to force the cut but let the machine do the work too.

I’m always very careful not to touch any wall. I also use the old blunt blades to break the joint between the top of the skirting and wall so as not to pull the plaster down when pulling it off.

As it says. I've found multitool blades are virtually useless. Was removing 7" skirting and only managed about 4 cuts. Even when using brand blades.

I'm installing a new L-shaped kitchen and want to include LED strip lighting under cabinets, over the top and hopefully at kick board level if I can make a way that they are not vulnerable to damage. The lengths are; top of cabinets approx 7 metres, under cabinets is approx. 5 metres and the...

No engineering drawings for this detail. Just very loose statements of two layers of plasterboard around exposed steel for fire purposes. I started with PIR padding but it provided difficult. The steels had lots of tek bolts in the webs to secure wall ties in the side and back faces and holding...

This is what the gable end of the steel frame looks like. I've now padded out all of the steel webs with rockwool and the drawings states two layers of plasterboard over any exposed steel. The underside of the cross beam between the top and bottom gable window will have 50mm insulated...

I’ll take some photos tomorrow.