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OK, thanks. With the current good weather I'm hoping to get the whole window done.

As there appears to be nothing exactly what I’m after, I’ve opened up the gaps in the frame and have used Ronseal 2 pack.

But silicone won’t take paint will it?

I've been restoring the bay windows on my 1940's. I've stripped the main frames back to remove the layers of paint which has built up over the years. I've primed and undercoated the frames and any gaps in between the five casements and the casements and the cill, I filled with Brewers external...

To clarify, my pillar and pad was probably the wrong terminology. I meant a concrete pad to the depth of the required footing. From ground level the block work has to be built up to dpc due to a sloping site. Yes, concrete lintels across the top of the block work to pads in the existing house...

We don't know whether their footings do encroach on to our land but their Surveyor is asking for the footing details. Unfortunately we are not on speaking terms with our neighbours and even though we've used the same PW Surveyors as they did for their extension they have gone to someone else. I...

We are trying to go through the PW agreement but the neighbours want their own Surveyor, fair enough. He has now come back and asked for footing details. But how do we do this without starting the work. He's also said that if the neighbours extension footings protrude onto our land then we will...

I've struggled over the years with caulking when I paint over it. You can either see as I couldn't get a smooth even finish or it pulls up similar to silicone. What is the best caulking for getting a nice smooth finish and accepting a good oil paint finish on external windows. Richard

Engineer just been, the noise is the large cooling fan. The small oven thermostat doesn't work either so the cooker was overheating too. The mains trip was down to the large oven grill element going short. He said it was due to the large oven never being used and it absorbs moisture over time...

Thanks for all the input guys, but nothing sounds like the problem I've got. Got an Engineer coming in on Thursday to have a look.

Not a problem with our cooker as it's a free standing range type.

I just can't imagine what will cause the loud clicking/banging noise though. And that when it was doing this the MCB didn't trip.

Yes for the whole load but not the individual MCB which the cooker is wired to.

It's a split load main box and the RCD with the cooker on it tripped.

The electrics tripped out over the weekend, but not sure what caused it. The cooker was on at the time so I'm suspecting that to be the problem. When I turned on the oven today, after about 20 minutes when the oven was hot a loud clicking noise started to come for the cooker. But the electrics...

We have a combi boiler running a single zone system over three floors. All rads have TRV's apart from the middle floor bathroom. I would like to upgrade and provide better control over our heating and try to reduce our running costs. I started to read up on the Honeywell Evohome smart system...

Think I’d better get a 2nd opinion then. Thanks.

Are you talking about the main heat exchanger or the plate exchanger for the hot water.

He didn’t offer that solution. Is it possible? Would a de-rocking solution do the trick.

Mother-in-law had the Heating Engineer visit to service it today and he thinks it’s the main heat exchanger which is scaled up and causing the banging. He said a replacement would be around £500 but he doesn’t think the old 38CXI fitted circa 2005 is worth spending the money on. A replacement...