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Its more niche so it is more pricey. Your best bet is to educate yourself about the various systems, how they are done properly and then run it against the roofer to gauge his knowledge and whether he is corner cutting. Or you can pretend you know your stuff and specify what you want done. You...

Re-pointing may do the trick. Mortar is an issue since it does give eventually and water will seep through the tiniest of cracks. Your best bet would be to replace the mortar with a lead flashing sealant and then take it from there. I'm afraid there is no quick fix with these types of problems...

I installed a one piece EPDM roof on my garage roof (40m2) 7.5 years ago, still looks brand new and looks like a mirror when it rains which is very pleasing to look at. The expansion/contraction is a natural issue with all materials and not something particular to epdm. If its a serious issue...

Such a shame that ventilation in the UK is an afterthought, and very poorly thought out too at that.

When I close the trickle vent there is a small amount of air that is getting in. Windows are 12 years old. When I shut it I want it to seal completely. Is this possible with newer vent designs ?

https://do-it-up.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/uPVC-Window-Shootbolt-Roller-Cam-Lock.jpg As the title states, but also, what is the hex adjustment in the middle used for?

You could do some continuity and insulation resistance tests for each of the parts if you've got the tools. That should save you the need to buy another pcb.

P.S. since you got an F0, it could be the pump thats shorting.

Not so fast. I am running a viessmann 100 2021 version with weather comp on a 0.5 curve running 24/7 using ~40% less gas than my old setup which only ran 6 hours a day. It has flow temps of about 33c @ 0c, running at 97%+ efficiency. A constant internal temp of 23-23.5c and DHW goes all the way...

Are there any water leaks ? Try disconnecting the cables for each boiler part, and reconnect one at a time testing along the way to see if any particular component is giving you issues. You could save shed load of money on heating/dhw if you upgraded though. Boilers have come a very long way in...

I replaced them. Its been like this from the day the window was installed

Sorry, not the top - ignore that. Its a closing wedge installed on the upper part of the side.

I installed a sash wedge on the top of the casement frame for side hung window to pull the sash in (it's out by approx 4mm). It's pulled it in approx 2mm but there is still a gap. How do I bring it some more ? do I need a bigger wedge ? or maybe a sash riser ?

If you push against the cracked areas, does it move ? if so, by how much ? and is it wet or damp ? Plaster is heavy and will add additional weight to the ceiling (which is already artexed). If it was already struggling beforehand, the additional weight may cause it to crack more and possibly...

Why do upvc windows/doors have two weather seals ? one on the internal frame and one on the outer part of the sash ? do both prevent draughts or do they both serve different purposes ?

Whats the best way to remove a upvc window sash seal that has been factory glued on ? I used a stanley and the blade had a tendency to take chunks of pvc with it.

I am going to re-tile my screeded floor. What is the best way to remove the tile adhesive (cement based) ?

I have some 22mm mains running overground, and boxed underground, do I need to lag it ? It sweats a lot due to the humidity.

Great idea , I've got plenty of ceramic tiles laying around, I'll put them to use. I will also wrap the gas pipe in a cold wet rag. Alas due to the angling of the tees I need to keep it in place otherwise I would have just done the soldering outside.

I am going to solder 2 x 22mm tee joints, they are clipped next to a gas pipe, what precautions (if any) do I need to take ?