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Looks like Silverhook do a diaelectric waterproof silicone-based grease with a max operating temp above 180c. That would be more appropriate with synthetic o-rings.

This is to be used on CH, not potable. The silicone grease I have used to fix some sticky diverter valves (plastic) always wash off 2-4 weeks post install, and before you mention, the issue is thermal expansion and not sludge. The part needs lubrication to prevent sticking/water hammer. Also...

Thanks. The Artic Hayes brand is water repellent so will probably break down in the short term in a wet system. I have settled on Carlube Marine Waterproof Grease - waterproof and has low wash off so hoping it'll last for a few years.

Do you use marine grade grease ? or anything as long as its silicone? My biggest concern is with pressurised systems which have a high flow rate (esp low temp) that the grease will just wear off. I am currently researching different types of greases and have found marine grade lithium grease...

Has anyone ever used silicone grease in the wet parts of a heating system? e.g. pump, diverter etc - I have on occasion come across valves that get a little sticky which could do with some cleaning and I would imagine some waterproof grease would do wonders but I am not sure about longevity of...

Has anyone ever used a dosing vessel for a boiler filling loop ? I need to use some DS40 to clear some muck off the heat exchanger, the boiler will be isolated from the rest of the system since the rads have already been cleaned and I don't want to redo everything again.

Whats on the other side of the chimney? Pics would be nice - Inside and from outside.

I can take off the drain-point and put in some 15mm, so should be doable

Has anyone done this before ? The CH is clean but the boiler has some gunk and scale build up and I was thinking of isolating and doing a chemical power flush to clear it out (don't want to drain system down).

285 quid for materials ? how many walls did they do ?

Would be good to see pics of the electrical install. Did they get a spark in to do it ? I guess not. That t&e cable is not fit for use and will need to be redone. With electrical installs you need to consider the following: > consideration for the electrical load of appliances and selection...

Pretty sure 19mm steel pipes are for gas. They are used in more "heavy duty" situations where copper won't suffice.

Remember that a skim is no more than 1-2mm thick. It is supposed to go on really thin. The base structure needs to be completely flat and clean; any imperfections on the substrate will come through and will need correcting beforehand. You need to make sure whoever does redo the job fixes all the...

As others stated, don't use these types of websites - they are like the junky seo optimised websites you see on google, loads of content but little value. Look for local companies through other means and ask for a portfolio. How long has the building been standing ? If it's been a year or two...

Dont orbit sand it. Get a long straight edge, get some bonding plaster, fill in the curves, leave for 15 min and scrap off the excess and trowel it down - then reskim. Its difficult to say whether the plasterboard was put in incorrectly or whether the plasterers bodged it up. If the plasterboard...

> Poured on soil it seems > poor load distribution of the support beams, which will create stress points as you can see > should have used rebar > the concrete is exposed and no water barrier which could lead to rising damp > are the support beams properly sealed ? last thing you want is for...

what is the boiler pressure ? do some more air purges and bleed air from radiators.

when you say breaks, what do you mean ?

or you may end up with loads of nasty looking air bubbles.

Non barrier pex is a plausible cause considering companies cut corners for new builds to save money. I think the best solution provided no leaks is to powerflush (that includes doing each radiator individually), remove all water from the system and refill with de-mineralised and degassed water -...