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  1. B

    Room in Roof insulalation

    200mm is the depth, not the width. Your Homebase link says that those rolls are available so that they can be split into 380mm widths.
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    Led dimming

    Deleted, as no longer relevant.
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    Advice re old Wylex setup

    It's definitely a case of Donald Rumsfeld's "unknown unknowns". At the double risk of (a) getting into a philosophical argument and (b) mansplaining. John is absolutely correct in implying that the 2 sockets (in a double socket) share their power supply. BUT, we have what we call "ring finals"...
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    Use existing 1950s metal conduit for rewire

    Before you start, it's probably best to check with your electrician (who has to sign it off as being done properly) that (s)he's happy for you to do the parts that you want to do, e.g. the running in of the cable.
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    Wifi/App Thermostat plug?

    Deleted, as no longer relevant.
  6. B

    Sub CU

    Just to live down to my moniker: following on from: My guess is that Chivers was trying to check the 63A RCD would be correct.
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    Fused connection unit burnt out

    I believe this might be to avoid the "borrowed neutral" problem. If you've got 2-way switching and the upstairs lights are on a different RCD to the downstairs lights, then it's possible for a light to take it's power from the upstairs circuit but to have it's neutral wire on the downstairs...
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    Faulty BG RCBOs anyone else

    Love the typo.
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    Which oven

    If I've understood what people have been saying: so a single 10mm2 (which you run everything off) or 2 by 6mm2. I assume you'd split the sockets between these 2 cables.
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    Backbox size for USB socket plate

    Just a suggestion, could you use a spacer such as: https://cpc.farnell.com/bg/817/pattress-box-1g-10mm-spacer/dp/PL08924 It's supplying 10mm when you're after 5 (but it might be all we can find). I'm sure other suppliers are available.
  11. B

    Any recognise this flush plate

    It might be worthwhile checking this website: https://www.fixthebog.uk/ and sending them photos.
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    6A terminal block to leave light switch always on

    If you use a blanking cover then that might not indicate a safe zone, whether adding one of these, link: https://www.electrium.co.uk/products/crabtree/catalog?main=AAG&man=0170&sub=AAB&pro=AAB&level=4 is sufficient to show a safe zone, I leave to others to decide.
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    Condensing exhaust temperature

    I do believe your physics is a bit rusty. If you add heat to some water at 100C and turn it into steam then you've added a certain amount of heat. If you turn some water vapour at, say, 50C into liquid water (still at 50C) and (hey presto) you find you've got the same amount of water as you...
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    Click Consumer Unit & RCDs

    I'm no spark so can't comment on your idea, but normally people say that new CUs need notifying to your Local Authority's Building Control and it's nearly always cheaper to get it installed by a professional who can self-notify (via his trade body) than to pay the BC's fees.
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    Need to move cooker switch - Part P?

    Deleted, as no longer relevant.
  16. B

    Red, green and yellow cable?

    If you're going to connect your new switch to (the position of) the existing one by burying a cable then, I believe, you'll need to create a safe zone connecting them. People here reckon that a blanking plate doesn't do this. I leave it to others to say whether one of these (uses minimal...
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    is there really any point in rcds

    I had assumed that, whatever the original intention was, in practice RCDs force us to correct minor (if there is such a thing) or intermittent faults before they have a chance to cause real danger.
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    4 Vs 5 Terminal dual-rate meter confusion

    deleted, as no longer relevant.
  19. B

    Amd 3 and plastic wall plugs

    Deleted, as no longer relevant.
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    2.5mm T&E in 16mm OD conduit ?

    One of the regulars here who, unlike me, knows what he's talking about said in: https://www.diynot.com/diy/posts/4171551/ that you can wire the whole house in flex.
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