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I'm looking to peg grass turf onto an earth slope which is on the boundary with another property. The earth slope is not continuous and is about 0.5m high slope, then about 30cm wide on a flat, then another 0.4m high slope. Could I peg grass turf onto the whole earth slope? The roots from this...

100mm timberlock screws (like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/fastenmaster-timberlok-hex-double-countersunk-self-drilling-structural-timber-screws-6-3mm-x-100mm-50-pack/56926) or 100mm wood screws (like this...

100mm 6s aren't structural screws. I thought only masonry or structural (coach) screws were acceptable for screwing 3x2 timber to brick?

Good point. For a 3x2" spanning across, for a stud ceiling, what's the maximum unsupported length? I would need a ceiling drop down at set points

I'm digging an earth bank out to widen the back of a garden I should be able to gain about 120cm flat land. The original earth retaining wall is inward of the actual property boundary. I am digging behind the earth retaining wall (65cm high). The issue is what to do with the remaining earth...

So to double up I could screw the ceiling drop down to RSJ chokes (wood wedge) and screw the ceiling drop down to horizontal pieces of wood? This way it strengthens the frame

Is wedged 3x2" CLS timber strong enough to hold a piece of a subtimber frame? Ceiling drop downs use more wood but are mechanically fixed. I did use this wedge chock method in steel RSJs but only to hold plasterboard around the RSJ.

True but I don't want to drill into the RSJ. Is my method ok?

There's not a lot of trunking per wall (each wall is about 3m wide) say about x3 vertical surface trunking bits at most . I don't think you completely cover the plasterboard rear with adhesive. I'm not adding cables before because I honestly don't know if I'm going to add cables. If I don't no...

I'm looking to add a stud ceiling to lower ceiling height from 2.7m to 2.4m. 3 of the edges are standard brick walls: for these edges I will use 150mm masonry screws to fix horizontal 3"x2" CLS timber (B) to the wall 1 of the edges is a steel RSJ: for this edge I will instead fix a 3"x2" timber...

I'm looking to use plasterboard adhesive to stick 18mm plaster over 25mm plastic surface trunking...

That was put up in a hurry with no planning. Yep I admit it!

The area I'm trying to cover is about 1.5m x 1m. If I starting again I may aswell lower the ceiling to 2.3m which is about 10cm below the steel beams. I could put 3x2" CLS timber spanning wall to wall below the steels (avoiding them). This way do I still need to fix the timber to the steels...

M10/M12 bolts? Ok if I were to redo I may aswell lower the ceiling even further to below the steel beams (parallel but underneath) overall ceiling height 2.3m. Basically span a 3x2" from load bearing wall to load bearing wall. So this way could I just use 2 x timber to masonry joist hangers (...

Ok if I were to redo I may aswell lower the ceiling even further to below the steel beams (parallel but underneath) overall ceiling height 2.3m. Basically span a 3x2" from load bearing wall to load bearing wall. So this way could I just use 2 x timber to masonry joist hangers ( one either end)...

So something like this would be the solution

What's your point? Why is my point that 'it's better to vertically hang timber than drill through steel beams' so controversial? It's COMMON SENSE

Well the advice I got was to 1) drill into steel beams (no I don't want a 50kg steel beam buckling and falling down), 2) redo plasterboard (fair enough I will do), 3) add rigidity to the frame (which I will do by adding vertical drop downs). So no I know I didn't do a good job - but half the...

You sure that I can get away without using the M12 holes and just use the 5mm holes with sheradized nails (i.e. structurally sound and able to be signed off by building control?) Would be a lot easier if the case