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Ahh, sadly I read this thread first.

You'll have to wait for Westie to confirm but my guess is that unless there's a really compelling reason for it to be changed then they will charge you many hundreds of pounds. My advice is that it would be cheaper to buy your neighbour a bottle of whisky and apologise.

Maybe they're used for cooking on?

Well, it's hard to tell how. Maybe they removed the end of the drum, did the termination and refitted it, maybe they did some kind of keyhole surgery. It's also possible that the unwound the drum, terminated it and then wound the cable back on. As for why, ask me not the reason why. Given...

It means it's 16mm2 copper cable with PVC insulation that's connected to a three-phase TN-S supply. You can't see the connection as it's hidden behind the drum. I wouldn't want to touch the other end though.

I guess what you're thinking is will it save more money changing the higher power lamps first? Well, in theory maybe but you also need to consider the run time. If you've got a 40W lamp in your living room that runs for five hours a day, then it makes a lot more sense to change that first than...

Also that's somewhere in the region of 7.36KW. Did you say oven or kiln?

Not at all, just get yourself some resistors, a baked bean tin and a couple of handfuls of sand and build yourself a dummy load. You'll have those new lamps shining brightly in no time.

If anyone captures any images on Santa on your CCTV tonight, please post the images here.

Tell them nothing, let them buy a programme!

Well, it is a DIY forum!

Sounds reasonable.

I hear the industrial look is in this season.

They weren't at risk, he just couldn't be bothered to do the derating calculations :-) I hope the client plans to keep the Cu polished.

The world has yet to catch up. A couple of years ago I ran some HDMI cables from the media area to my projector and the scant faceplates available were amazingly poorly thought out. In the end I ran standard HDMI cables, got some keystone faceplates with blanking plates and some right-angled...

Each luminary, which is conveniently located near where the detector goes has a nearby JB, which provides for power. It's a little less hassle running a single interlink cable than 3C&E and also avoids running two 3C&E cables in to each detector (it's a little cosy in there). It's also a real...

Inverter?

Is it any more a sin to have alarms powered from different sources with an interlink than it is to have two PCs on different circuits interlinked with an Ethernet cable or two mains powered telephones interlinked with telephone wire?

I have a number of smoke alarms to fit. It seem to be that most people are wiring them in 3C&E. Fortuitously it seems I have a convenient source of power near each one, so one really only needs to run a cable for the interconnect. Just wonder what cable people prefer to use in this case?

Assuming a 2.2KW element and 10p per KWh and a 14 day holiday, I make that about £73.92. This assumes the element is on constantly, which of course it will turn off once the oven reaches temperature. I'm not sure what the duty cycle would likely be, so haven't accounted for it. I was one in...