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We repaired our sunken parts with grit sand. Kiln dried sand is for brushing easily into the gaps between the blocks, so you will need a little bit. Ours was sunken because a HIAB extended a leg onto it, and lifted off a heavy load.

Head to a proper paint shop, who will be able to provide what you need, in any colour you can dream of. I've previously used Dulux Trade Diamond Eggshell. It is mid-sheen, but very good in a bathroom I found.

Ours was nice and solid when we went to remove it.... only because of the connection into the ground it turned out. The wall brackets were fixed to wooden plugs, pre-dating Rawl type ones, and they were rotten. We cut through the stack at the bottom, a very gentle pull and the whole 3.5m of...

I think I could build a swing out of 1mm T+E, and it would last well!

Sorry to drag this post almost back to topic, but I think I missed AMD3 in some resopects.... So if I am reading @JohnW2 correctly, a 'power' circuit no longer has to be 1.5mm cores, and in fact 1mm will be fine where the circuit breaker is appropriate. I say this weeks after buying a roll of...

A lot depends how big the slab will be. I set ply vertically with a laser level, and stacked a load of 6" blocks to the outside. Having used the laser, I knew the ply boxing was within 2mm accuracy. Filled the box I'd made with concrete, and used a length of 4x2 wider than box to level it...

A few concrete screws with Form A washers will be fine. Quick and easy.

50mm in an 80mm wall is fine.... I cannot prove it but I think the wall I partially filled performs better than the one I full filled. There is a theory that the sound is killed off better when it has air space and has to pass materials of varying density, all gets too complex for me though!

Job done! To get everything perfectly level there are bits of DPC and lead used as packing where required. Thanks for all the input, 6x2 was probably a very good idea, and I cannot notice any deflection under foot.

Great, thanks for explaining. I misread mm as m. Very useful and re assuring information!

Sorry, was a bit too technical for me. The span before was 2.2m, and it still is. But with deepeer timbers?

Wasn’t I at that anyway? But now it’s 2.2m with 150mmx47mm ?

I think I'll do this... I definitely don't want cracked tiles and a complete tear out to resolve it. Will take some extra time, but hopefully make things worry free! 100mm of PIR going in between :) No tiler appointed yet, and the wife adds this week that we need UFH, so that's nice! Once...

You have building sand, where as you would need plastering sand. rendering (Which is what you propose) doing isn't going to look good until you have a decent amount of practise. @Stuckinarut thinks you want to do the outside of the chimney, but if it's inside, 1:5 would be OK. But... it will...

Doing this job next week. Is 4x2 with noggins every 600mm and the ends going to be sufficient and bounce-free? It's half the price of 4x3, unsurprisingly. Thanks :)

Those timbers that have been used to infill the chimney aren't right. It should have new sections sistered to the existing above and below, running over 800mm each way, with 3x M10 bolts each side at 200mm offset centres , with toothed washers in place. But, it may 'do' as it is.

es, the bathrooms are to be lowered. Nice trick, and I'd never have thought of it! As it happens, I need to remove the floor, anyway. I need to run the 110mm drainage underneath, and lifting the joists seems like an easier method to do that. The joists only serve this space, so lifting them...

Added span info, oops! 2.2m

We are trying to keep the entire house floors flush throughout. The bathrooms are all going to be tiled, and so a tiler has recommended allowing 20mm for this. Current floor beams are 125x50mm rough sawn, span between sleeper walls is 2.2m. I am keen to avoid having to reduce the sleeper...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milwaukee-4932471357-One-handed-Tool-free-Integrated/dp/B082L14L7D I started using these a couple of years ago, and really rate them. - Flip easily - Cuts string closed - Blade change is very easy and tool-less