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Thanks for your reply. I'm just wondering how I proceed to terminate the cables after turning off the circuit breaker, and I wasn't planning to touch the cables hemselves at the CU end.

Morning all I'm just about to commence refurbishment of our bathroom, which amongst other things will involve removing an electric shower unit and replacing it with a thermostatic shower fed from the combi boiler. What is the acceptable method of isolating an unused shower circuit? I'll isolate...

Thanks both. It’s so simple that I feel like a bit of a fool for asking. But if you don’t ask then you might never know, and having fitted this flush valve about 18 months ago the instructions are long gone.

Is it possible to adjust the length of the short flush on a button cable Fluidmaster fill and flush valve? I think it must be, because Welsh Water removed our internal water meter the other day ( replacing it with a "smart" water meter outside) and the short flush now shuts off almost...

Thank you. I was pretty sure that I’d turned that black tap to the horizontal when pressurising the boiler, mistakenly believing that it was the blue tap in front of it. But not 100 per cent sure, hence my question. All is now as it should be.

Just found it online and it appears to be a return valve that, and I quote, "enables the user to manipulate the flow of water and gas in to the central heating system. These also allow you to stop the flow completely in case of a leak or emergency".

As below, though unfortunately the photo is on its side. You should be able to see one blue tap on one pipe, and a blue tap and black tap on the other. The first blue tap opens the filling loop and the other blue tap, when opened, tops up the pressure. Its the position of the black tap behind...

Afternoon all I’ve just added some rust inhibitor to our sealed CH system via the towel rail. The boiler is an Ideal Logic + combi c30. After I topped up the pressure in the system I discovered that we had no hot water: turned out that I’d left the filling loop tap in the horizontal position...

Thanks again. Quick update. I managed to break up one of the floor tiles and, using the plunge saw blade of my new multi tool to make a nice square hole in the wooden floor, accessed the leaking Conex joint. Having opened a rad connection and allowed the entire contents of the CH system to...

Many thanks. My first thought was indeed to isolate them as you do with wall tiles, but being perhaps more robust then I thought maybe there was a different technique. Can't do anything now till Friday, but I'll be sure to get togged up with safety gear before I tackle the job. I don't know...

Thanks for that. I've more or less decided now that I'll renew the fitting, then long term I should be able to rely on the joint remaining dry. But I'll make sure there's access in the floor for maintenance purposes.

Further help needed, folks. I've noticed that the boiler pressure is dropping slowly, so naturally suspected that the underfloor joint about which I've been fussing has indeed started leaking. So I got my endoscope, shoved it through a tiny hole that I've made in the floor and left it in situ...

We live in Conwy, and Welsh Water are currently fitting compulsory smart meters for all consumers. We already have an indoor meter in a cupboard in the bathroom, but when the chap came to change it, it turned out that the smart meter is much bulkier than the old one. Because of that size...

Ooh. Reckon I’d better go rootin’ in my toolbox. Might have something valuable to leave the kids after all!

Not seen one for quite some time, which I suppose is why I described this one as "old". Mind you, probably still got one or two underneath the dust in the bottom of my tool box.

Thanks for that. The troublesome lateral movement is something to do with reaching over for the toilet paper, or so I'm told.

I had one of those Titan thingies and they really are very good, especially for the price. You can indeed batter Hell out of them and they just keep going, as long as you give the machine a good clean after use.

For many years, we had the standard fitting of the round, adjustable hinge on top with the threaded bolt and plastic/ rubber washers underneath and that worked pretty well. I bought a new seat from B and Q a few months ago, and they now supply them with a bolt through a metal washer on top, and...

Not actually an “old” one, as it turns out. Conex make them, with ridges on the nut faces. https://www.toolstation.com/conex-301-compression-straight-coupler/p46615

I’ll see if I can find one online..